ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / book reviews |
Book Reviews 1999 content:
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![]() Embroidered
orphrey from a chasuble, |
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The author
studied the needlework on multiple level, including such
diverse and surprising topics as politics, religion,
trade, education and social status. And she points out,
that the pieces were made by schoolgirls, amateur needle
workers, and professionals who were trying to earn a
living. A wide range is represented, from girls as young
as eight to grown men and woman in their sixties and
seventies. It is the first time that the collection of 17th c. textiles can be seen as a whole. More than 115 pieces of exquisite needlework are assembled from the collection and from private lenders. The catalogue is an exploration of 7 themes
that have emerged out of the authors 12 years study
of embroidery, sewing, knitting and lace - and what men
and women of the time had to say about those objects. Toilette box with raised work panels, "The Four Seasons", made by Anne B(u?)rham, England, dated 1674. Ann was probably between eleven and sixteen, when she completed this masterpiece. Stitches and techniques: applied objects, coaching, detached buttonhole, French knot, overtwisting, split. 1956-300 A. |
![]() Ann B(u?)rhams box closed Ann B(u?)rhams box opened |
Rebecca
Crompton and Elizabeth Grace Thomson. Pioners of Stitchery in the 1930s, London 1996 by Beryl Dean and Pamela Pavitt illustrated in black and white and colour |
contributed by Pat Griffiths: An interesting account, with many illustrations, of the embroideries and teaching activities of two poineers of modern embroidery design in England. |
"Cash in Hand", 12.5 in. x 154 in. Contrasting tones. Applique and stitching with the sewing machine |
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A number of
examples of embroidered buratti are preserved in Tomezzo
(Udine). There are red and white fringed borders to
decorate bed linen, towels and so on. The embroidery is
mostly worked in red cross-stitch. Many of the borders
are enriched by a woven braid in red and white. Two fibres are used for the fringed cloth: linen for the white and cotton for the red thread. The borders were woven on the loom in the english plain gauze technique, producing a network holding the weft firmly together. This old technique is widespread in Italy and perhaps Sicilian origin. The white warp linen threads
are joined in pairs and divided into groups of three or
four pairs. North of the Alps these
borders can be found in several museums: in Nuremberg, in
Salzburg, pieces exist in Moravia, in V+A Museum London
(also in Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Raetisches Museum,
Chur). |
A.
Hart and S. North Historical Fashion in Detail. The 17th and 18th Centuries Victoria & Albert Museum 1998 |
reported
by Pat Griffiths illustrated in colour and black and white, glossary, bibliography. This splendidly-illustrated survey of details of garments and accessories contains many excellent photographs and descriptions of embroidery, quilting etc. A mans doublet of glazed bleached linen, embroidered with linen thread in back stitch, French knots and couching, English 1635-40. Museum no. 177-1900 Detail of a mans doublet of embroidered leather, English 1625-30. Museum no. T.146-1939 |
Detail of a mans
waistcoat, blue ribbed silk, embroidered with silver
thread, foil and spangles. English 1730-50. Museum no. T.29-1950 |
home | Last revised January 20, 2001 | For further information contact Anne Wanner wanner@datacomm.ch |