ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /  book reviews, articles

silk embroidered vestments
of early 17th c., from Tirol

(Seidenbestickte Leinenparamente des frühen 17. Jhs)

in: Der Schlern, 74, 2000, 7, p. 407
text in german, catalogue with many photographs
by Magdalena Hörmann-Weingarten

  The Autor compiled a catalogue of embroidered linen vestments of the early 17th the Alp region. Impuls was the discovery of an embroidery used as lining of an altarfrontal. This lining used to be an altarfrontal itself. It is ornamented with applications of loose and brightly coulored yarns and paillettes. Large flowers on thin tendrils surround the centre group with Mary and archangels Michael and Gabriel. The Virgin herself is represented with a crown and sceptre in a glory.
The representation of the Madonna shown as a queen follows the type of the so called Madonna "Patrona Bavariae", which was widely spread over the region of South Germany in the early 17th c. The Autor found a number of very similar embroideries in small churches, but also in Museums of Innsbruck, Brixen, Triest, Bozen.


  Another group of very similar vestments was found in the alp region inclusive Croatia Slovenia. This means that there probably was a main center of production in Tirol, but other workshops must have existed as well.

The embroidery technique is a very simple one which probably was not executed by professional embroiderers. Maybe it was done in convents or by nobel women in their homes. They all show floral pattern with figural scenes included. Very often there are representations of the Virgin Mary, but there are also saints and 2 examples show the crucifixtion.

  A catalogue of 38 entries with pictures is added to the article. Six more chasuables are known but it was not possible to receive informations about them.
Among the chasuables there are 2 chalice veils and the altar frontal mentionned in the beginning as a starting point of the research.

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