|ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / book reviews, articles|
München entworfen, in Mailand gestickt
ein Prunkreitzeug Kurfürst Maximilians I. von Bayern,
von Brigitte Volk-Knüttel
in: Münchner Jahrbuch der
bildenden Kunst, dritte Folge Band LI 2000, Sonderdruck
|In occasion of the reunion
of electors from July 3rd to November 12th 1630, the
elector Maximilian Ist of Bavaria ordered new splendid
saddle cloths, saddle and harness, blinders, stirrups, pistol holsters, straps, etc.
The textiles are from red
velvet and with gold embroidery. Only electors were
allowed to use velvet, silk, silver and gold for their
own horses, and these items were kept together with
tapestries and other precious textiles. Today they are
preserved in the castel of Nymphenburg near Munich.
"Kredenzdecke", photo from 1876
centre of embroidery was one of the richest European
Capitals, and its economic wealth was a consequence of
its arts and crafts.
The contemporary writer Paolo Morigia said in 1592 in his " Historia dell'Antichita di Milano" that there were more embroiderers in Milano than in any other italian towns. And these embroiderers worked a lot in gold and silver.
The famous flag of Milano, finished in 1566 was worked by Scipio Delfinone and we know that he also made riding things. It seems that they were a speciality of Milano. Towards the end of 16th c. Caterina Cantoni was a very famous embroideress here. She was reputed as the inventress of "punto Cantona", an embroidery stitch who had an equal look on both sides of the fabric.
Pompeo Berlusconi (see Binaghi, 1994/5, p.106-109) was renowned for his friezes and ornamented parts. One of his altarfrontals looked very similar to the clothes of Munich.
"Waltrappe (saddle cloth)",
detail of "Waltrappe"
1620s there were political struggles between France and
Spain and a general decline in Northern Italy, in 1630
there were years of the Plague. Due to the Tirty Year's
War foreign customers did not come any longer to Milano.
The georgeous embroideries for Bavaria were made shortly before the Plague in Milano and also before the years of pestilence in Munich in 1634.
Milan Embroidery 16th and 17th c, as quoted in the
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