ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /  book reviews, articles

  - A propos des brodeurs parisiens de la permière moitié du XVIIe siècle
- Ornements brodés pour la Couronne de Suède

in: Un temps d'Exuberance, les Arts Décoratifs sous Louis XIII et Anne d'Autrice, from 1610 to 1661, exhibition catalogue, Grand Palais, Paris, 2001, p. 857-868

by Danièle Véron-Denise

  In the first of the two articles the author deals with professional embroiderers, grouped in a corporation and also known as "brodeurs chasubliers" which means that they embroidered church textiles as well. The brotherhood of embroiderers was founded in 1471 and had its residence in the church Sainte-Opportune. In the kings's palaces there lived embroiderers who were supposed to work for the king exclusively. They were not allowed to have their own business or other clients. Around 1648 there were in Paris between 200 and 300 embroiderers, in 1700 there were 273.

  During the reign of Anne d'Autriche, Nicolas de la Fage was embroiderer and painter of the King and the Queen from 1646-1665. Charles Hulin embroidered for the King in 1657, and so did Dominique Lerminot from 1656 until his death in 1693. Anne d'Autriche had at least one woman among her embroiderers, Jeanne Dubois who was a niece of Nicolas Dubois, embroiderer of Henri IV. She was related to other embroiderers with the name Dubois. There were also wifes of embroiderers like the wife of Mathieu Croquet. Charlotte Herbinet worked before 1625 in the house of Henriette de France, sister of Louis XIII.

A document from 23 february 1645 mentiones a series of purchases and also the two master embroiderers Pierre Boucher and Denis Coron. They were commissioned by the king to work a complete coach equipment with saddle and harness for 6 horses. Another document says that it had to be done for Henry d'Orléans, duc de Longueville, and he had to be in Muenster where during several years the discussions about the end of the 30 years war took place. He arrived there on the 30st of June 1645. With his splendid appearance he not only influenced these proceedings but french gold embroidery had its influence to the european fashion as well. Specially the Swedish councelor Jean Oxenstierna was impressed by those works of art.

  The other article of Danièle Véron-Denise deals with embroideries for the swedish crown. In the cabinet royale des Armes in Stockholm there are still preserved some splendid gold embroideries made for the coronation of Queen Christine of Sweden on 20 October 1650. Already in 1647 the counselors of the Queen started to organize this event. They wanted to show to all Europe the growing importance of the northern kindom. The french embroiderer Pierre Boucher worked here together with other craftsmen as for instance Fridrich Feuerborn, woh was named in Sweden Feuwrbrun, from 1638 - 1648. Since 1651 we find him inscribed in the church registre of the german church. Earlier he lived in France where he was married to Marie Leclerc, in her family there were many embroiderers. In Sweden he had a new wife, Denise Bigran, a son was born to them in 1651. Feuwrbrun died in 1675.
In 1654 Christine renounced to the throne and her cousin became king. Charles-Gustave took the name of Charles X. In this year again splendid ceremonies took place, but there were no new commissions in Paris, the embroidered objects of 1650 were again used.
In 1660 Charles X died and his funeral gave occasion to new festivities.
  Embroidered textiles in the exhibition:

- Coffret au chiffre de Marie de Médicis, beginning 17th c., Paris, musée du Louvre, Inv. OA 9463 - Coffret à tiroirs, around 1630, Paris, Initials A.D.B, Paris, musée du Louvre, Inv. OAR 306
- Chasuble de la Duchesse de Montbazon, 1642, Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours
- Dais de Louis XIII et d'Anne d'Autriche, around 1641, with coat of arms, which point to the two sons of Anne d'Autriche, Louis XIV 1638 and Earl of Anjou in 1640, Reims cathedral
- Pièce brodée: l'Europe, around 1630-40, Beaugency (Loiret), hôtel de ville
- Corporalier à volets brodés, 1621, signature F.Pierre Vigier 1621, most probable masterpiece of this embroiderer of Lyon, Lyon musée historique des Tissus, Inv. 25133
- Antependium de la Pentecôte, 1649-1652, Bruère Allichamps (Cher), abbaye de Noirlac
- Reliure brodé aux armes de Louis XIII, 1615, Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France
- Reliure brodée à l'emblème et au monogramme d'Anne d'Autriche, 1647, Paris, bibliothèque Mazarin, Ms. 2212
- Pièce brodée dite du Bon Pasteur, around 1640-1650, Rouen, musée départemental des Antiquités. Inv. 1939A

- Deux draperies du carrosse du couronnement de Christine de Suède, made in Paris between 1647 and 1650, Stockholm, Inv. 751 a,b
- Caparaçon, selle et fontes de l'héritier présomptif du trône au couronnement de Christine de Suède, Paris between 1647 and 1650, Stockholm, Inv. 3877
- Costume d'or du couronnement de Charles X, around 1647-1650, made in Paris, today Stockholm, Inv. 3408, 3409
- Costume d'écarlate et d'argent de Charles X (casaque, pourpoint, culotte), Paris 1647-1650, Stockholm, Inv. 3386, a,b,c
- Selle brodée pour les funérailles de Charles X, made in Sweden, 1660, Stockholm, Inv. 9037


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