ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /  book reviews, articles

 
 

La Collezione Gandini, Merletti, ricami e galloni dal XV al XIX secolo
a cura di Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols e Iolanda Silvestri, Modena 2002
480 pages, col. illustrations, 895 black and white photographs, Text in Italian and German
Euro 42.00
ISBN: 88-8290-478-4

Museo Civico d'Arte
Largo Porta S.Agostino, 337
Italia - 41100 Modena
Tel.059 200100
e-mail: museo.arte@comune.modena.it
www.comune.modena.it/museoarte

Franco Cosimo Panini Editore
Viale Corassori, 24, - 41100 Modena
Tel. 059 343572 - Fax 509 344374
e-mail:
info@fcp.it


   
  This is the third volume in the series on the collections formed by the Modenese nobleman Luigo Alberto Gandini (1828-1905) . The description of the 865 examples of lace, embroidery and passementerie are preceded by various articles.
All the pieces in the collection, however small, are described in careful detail in sections covering lacis and buratto (pp. 144-60), drawn thread-work, cutwork and reticella (pp. 160-171), needle lace (pp. 172-184), macramé (185-187), bobbin lace (pp. 190-244), machine lace (pp. 245-289), metal thread lace (pp. 249-267) . Included in the book for comparative purposes are a series of colour illustrations of portraits, costumes, church vestments and metal laces in other museum collections, mostly in Italy.
Much of the lace is too fragmentary to be of great interest, but there are some good examples of metal lace, an interesting piece of parchment lace (no. 260) and a handkerchief (no. 180) done entirely in silk in the Venetian point de neige technique.
In each case Gandini's original descriptions are also given.
As Santina Levey remarks in her preface to the book, Gandini's collection can now be seen as one of the monuments to the pioneering collectors of the 19th century.
In her book review, regarding passementerie, Pat Griffiths points out, that this part of the collection appears to be of considerably greater interests than lace.
 
  contents:
Santina M. Levey: Premessa
Francesca Piccinini: Introduzione
Iolanda Silvestri: Le metamorfosi del tessile: pizzi, ricami e passamanerie della Collezione Gandini, Birgitt Borkopp: Collezionisti e collezioni. Nascita e sviluppo delle collezioni di merletti nell'Ottocento
Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols: Studio e schedatura della parte V della Collezione Gandini
Silvia Urbini: Libri di modelli. Repertori per le arti decorative del Rinascimento
Marialuisa Rizzini: Merletti metallici e ricami tra Cinque e Settecento
Claudia Cremonini - Jolanda Silvestri: Splendori in filigrana. Pizzi e ricami d'oro e d'argento nei parati liturgici estensi dei secoli XVII e XVIII
Lorenzo Lorenzini: La passamaneria: un "virtuoso artifizio" dell'arte tessile

Schede - catalogo:
Ricami e decorazioni per abiti, Filet e buratti, Sfilati e merletti ad ago
Macramè, Merletto a fuselli, Merletti e ricami meccanici, Meletti in filato metallico
Galloni in filato metallico, Galloni in velluto, Galloni araldici, Galloni a telaio, Nastri, Frange, Fiocchi

Glossario
Tavole di raffronto
Bibliographia

La Sala Gandini nel Museo Civico d'Arte di Modena

 
 

Fragment, Italy, 17th c., 18,5x18,5,
linen embroidered with silk


Fragment, Italy, first half 17th c.
buratto, embroidered with silk



Fragment, Italy, first half 17th c.
embroidered with silk and gold thread

     
 
   

home   content Last revised January 2nd, 2003

For further information contact Anne Wanner wanner@datacomm.ch