ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /  book reviews, articles
 
  Modeband, Seidenbänder aus Basel, by: Therese Schaltenbrand Felber, Ingrid Loschek, Margret Ribbert, Irmgard Peter, Wiebke Koch-Mertens, Sabine Strebel, Barbara Alder, Nathalie Unternährer, contributions by Kurt Aeschbacher, Raffael Blechschmidt, Christa de Carouge, Martin Leuthold, André Stutz, Basel, 2004, 271 pages, over 200 coloured and black and white photos, in german language.
ISBN 3-85616-220-8

www.christoph-merian-verlag.ch
http://www.christoph-merian-verlag.ch/m2_buecher/fs_buecher.cfm?action=neu
     
  The book deals with silk and other textile ribbons in fashion. Ingrid Loschek, the well known specialist and author of many books on fashion, gives a survey of the development of the ribbon in fashion. Margret Ribbert, historian and curator of the Historic Museum of Basle writes about the use of ribbons in the fashion of hats. Irmgard Peter, former curator of the Basle Museum very closely looks at the pattern and motives in the ribbon production. With more than 100 pages and with very good photographs, this part of the book shows excellent examples of the Basle silk ribbon industry. Wiebke Koch-Mertens gives an outlook into the 21st century, with her students she developped several projects on where to use ribbons in the future.

Also the special history of the region of Basle in Switzerland is dealt with. Barbara Alder, Therese Schaltenbrand Felber, Nathalie Unternährer, three young historians, living and working around Basle give a survey of this textile industry in the north west of Switzerland. Sabine Strebel, her too historian, shows a collection of early photographs, which were not made for fashion parades. They point to the everyday use of this accessory.

Some well known people were also interviewed and they give short ideas about their favorite silk ribbon: Christa de Carouge, fashion designer living and working in Geneva and Zurich, André Stutz of the silkhouse "Fabric Frontline" in Zurich. Kurt Aeschbacher, known from Swiss TV DRS, Martin Leuthold, textile designer and Raphael Blechschmidt, from a fashion house in Basle.
   
 
  the different chapters of the book are:

- Das Band in der Mode: an Kleid und Hose, by Ingrid Loschek:
Männliche Koketterie, Galants und Gänseklein, Postillon d'amour, à la grecque, das kreative Band, das dekorative Band, Petticoat und Minikleid, das Band als Fetisch, das befreite Band

- Das Band in der Mode: an Kopf und Hut, by Margret Ribbert:
Schleifenpracht am Ende des Rokoko, Bürgerlich geprägte Moden im 19. Jh., Hutmoden im 20. Jh., Bänder im Haar, Band und Tracht, Bänder am Männerhut - Dekor und Signal, das Ende des Bandes am Hut?

- Motive im Wandel: das Seidenband im 19. und 20. Jh., by Irmgard Peter
Création, das späte 18. und das frühe 19. Jh., Biedermeier, Aufbruch ins 20. Jh., das frühe 20. Jh., der Erste Weltkrieg, Nachkriegsjahre uind Niedergang der Bandweberei

- Mein Band-Favorit
André Stutz: Herr Aermelschoner hat die Magie der Seide begriffen, Christa de Carouge: Bänder im Haar, Kurt Aeschbacher: Das atypische Band, Martin Leuthold: alte Bänder - neue Technologien, Raphael Blechschmidt: die Rose als urweibliches Motiv

- Das Band in der Mode von morgen, by Wiebke Koch-Mertens
"James Band's Darling" von Florian Holdener, "tatschit"von Marlis Candinas, "Umfluss" von Mirjam Kündig, "distorted proportions" von Laura Weber, "das rote Band" von Michael Schubiger, "bants 'n' b-shirt" von Katrhrin Bickel

- Bänder auf historischen Fotografien, by Sabine Strebel

- Basler Bandweberei, by Barbara Alder, Therese Schaltenbrand Felber, Nathalie Unternährer
Verlagssystem und Botenwesen, Bandherstellung, Heimweberei, Fabrikweberei, Bandfabrikanten, Handel und Exportwirtschaft, Seide und andere Webmaterialien, Farbstoffe, Webstühle, Web- und Verzierungstechniken, Relikte der Basler Bandweberei
   
 
 
 

Mode à la fontange, 1686,
from Stadtmuseum of Munich,
Von Parish Kostümbibliothek (Pa 72)

"tatschit" by Marlis Candinas, 2003,
one of 16 projects, developped by students of 2nd semester
of University of designs and art, Basle
     
 

Margaretha Bachofen-Heitz, wife of the Basle Ribbon merchant,
by Alexander Roslin 1766, Museum.BL,
collection of paintings, Inv.Nr. 3396.

Three hats around 1845 / 55,
worn by Queen Victoria,
ribbon probably by english industry in Coventry,
Museum of London, Inv.Nr. MoL 66.79 / 16,17,18
     
 

Ribbons, second half 18th c.,
probably Saint-Etienne or Paris,
Historic Museum Basle,
Inv.Nr. 1907.253, 1907.254, 1987.707.

sampler book of the firm: Emanuel Hoffmann,
with silk ribbons, 1770-1780,
Historic Museum Basle, Inv.Nr. 1917.887
     
 

naturalistic flowers, 1868, 1849/50, 1848,
Museum.BL, Switzerland, collection De Bary,
Inv.Nr. DB 4533, DB 11950, DB 10805

Silk ribbon, 1913,
Museum.BL, Switzerland,
collection Seiler, Inv.Nr. S 19742
     
 

Emmy Buser (1897-1992) and Emma Probst (1896-1978)
preparing the loom for new work,
Rünenberg, Switzerland, 1975

Loom for weaving ribbons,
made by Niklaus Tschudin from Sissach, Switzerland, 1764,
Museum.BL, Switzerland, Inv.Nr. S 4847, S 4808
   
home  content Last revised October 29, 2004

For further information contact Anne Wanner wanner@datacomm.ch