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books and articles
End
of 2007:
Gestickte
Bildteppiche. Entstehungsbedingungen,
Verwendung und ihre Funktion, by Tanja
Kohwagner-Nikolai, in: Kloster und Bildung im
Mittelalter. Ed. by Nathalie Kruppa and Jürgen
Wilke (Veröffentlichungen des
Max-Planck-Instituts für Geschichte 218; Studien
zur Germania sacra 28), Göttingen 2006, p.
177-196.
Bildteppiche
- weit mehr als nur Schmuck. Themen und
Funktionen niederdeutscher Klostersticharbeiten
des Mittelalters, by Tanja Kohwagner-Nikolai, in:
Frauen - Kloster - Kunst. Neue Forschungen zur
Kulturgeschichte des Mittelalteers. Ed. by
Jeffrey F. Hamburger, Carola Jäggi, Susan Marti
und Hedwig Röckelein (in print 2007).
since
September (as presented at the Cieta meeting in Como):
- Merletti e
Ricami italiani - Italian Laces and Embroideries,
edited by Christina Notore, Essays by
Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols, Bianca Rosa Bellomo,
Bologna April 2007, text in Italian and in
English. ISBN 9788889262139. www.nuovas1.it
- Sticken und
Weben im Bergkloster, by Ursula
Karbacher, p. 243 - 271, in: Das
Benediktinerinnen Kloster Maria-Rickenbach in
Geschichte und Gegenwart, by Achermann
Hansjakob/Haller-Dirr Marita (Red.); Stans, 2007.
312 pages, 200 coloured photos, 310 x 235 mm.
Verlag Historischer Verein Nidwalden, Stans. ISBN
978-3-906377-10-0 - at sFr. 60.00, in
german language.
http://www.hvn.ch/dynamic/bestellung.asp?detailid=125&seiid=44
- Uzbeck
Embroidery in the Nomadic Tradition, The
Jack A. and Aviva Robinson collection at the
Minneapolis Institute of Arts. By Kate Fritz
Gibbon and Andrew Hale, 2007 Minneapolis
Institute of Arts.
Printed in Singapore, ISBN: 1-58886-09-9
www.artsmia.org - can be ordered at
$ 59.95.
Central Asia's famous Silk Road is the source of
the dynamic, highly abstracted embroideries of
the Uzbek peoples. In this hardcover book,
detailed color illustrations of the nearly 100
works in the Jack A. and Aviva Robinson
Collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts,
as well as numerous historic and contemporary
photographs, provide unparalleled access to the
styles and techniques for which the embroideries
of the Lakai and Kungrat nomads and the refined
textiles of the city of Sharisabs are renowned.
History, anthropology, and mythic tales blend
with women's textile magic in this fascinating
publication illuminating a brilliant artistic
tradition.
- Nastri /
Rubans / Bindel
Scambi di seta attraverso le Alpi, a
cura di Almerino De Angelis, Guy Scherrer
2006 Silvana Editorale Spa, Cinisello Balsamo,
Milano. In Italian language.
Saggi di Nadine Besse, Piero
Boschero, Giuseppe Chicco, Mario Cordero, Flavio
Crippa, Almerino De Angelis, GianNicolas Faure,
Pietro Ponzo, Guy Scherrer.
ISBN 88-366-0796-9 - www.silvanaeditoriale.it - at Euro 26.00.
Durante i secoli XVIII e XIX, pregiati
fili di seta uscivano dalle “fabbriche
magnifiche” piemontesi per prendere
soprattutto la strada di Francia e in
particolare della regione lionese, dove venivano
trasformati in tessuti che segnavano la moda del
tempo. Un episodio poco noto riguarda i rubans,
vale a dire i nastri in seta nella cui produzione
si erano specializzate le fabbriche della città
di Saint-Etienne, a sud di Lione. Tali nastri non
erano destinati soltanto agli abiti
dell’aristocrazia o dell’alta
borghesia: arrivando in Piemonte, i bindel,
come si chiamavano nelle parlate locali, venivano
impiegati nella confezione di abiti e costumi
nelle valli alpine, nonché per particolari usi
devozionali. Partendo da una ricognizione sui
caratteri della produzione dei
nastri/rubans/bindel a Saint-Etienne, la mostra e
il relativo catalogo documentano l’uso dei
nastri nelle manifestazioni della cultura
popolare della montagna cuneese. Un argomento
che, ampiamente illustrato nel volume, interessa
vari settori, spaziando
dall’ambito tecnico, a quello
storico-economico, dalla sfera artistica a quella
antropologica.
- Les
enrubannées. Haute Couture: Hommage au
ruban, St. Etienne 2006, by Nadine Besse et
autres.
ISBN 2-.755-0188-9 - www.saint-etienne.fr
- Mezzari and
the Cotton Route, I mezzari e la via del
cotone, by Marzia Cataldi Gallo.
2007 San Giorgio Editrice, Genova. 80 pages, text
in italian and english, 90 photos in colour and
black and white. 16,5 x 23,3; www.sangiorgioeditrice.it - at Euro 14.00.
I mezzari e la via del cotone, catalogo della
mostra organizzata dal Ministero per gli Affari
Esteri in collaborazione con quello per i Beni e
le Attività Culturali, ripercorre il percorso
seguito nei secoli passati dal cotone e dai
manufatti tessuti con quello, che, per la sua
diffusione sui mercati internazionali, era
definito “oro bianco”.
La pubblicazione, con testo a fronte
inglese/italiano, documenta l’enorme
ricchezza di questo patrimonio storico-artistico
e stimola riflessioni e approfondimenti sulla
materia.
- Tessuti
Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola,
by Marzia Cataldi Gallo
1999 Sagep,Genova, ISBN 88-7058-758-4-
in Italian.
- Clothing
culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium
AD, by Frances Pritchard, 2004,
Abeggstiftung CH 3132 Riggisberg, http://www.whitworth.manchester.ac.uk/
- Magazin
"TEXT" For the Study of Textile
Art. Design & History, volume 35, 2007-8
p. 58 book reviews – Joanna Hashagen &
Santina Levey.
www.textilesociety.org.uk
- Women at work
in Preindustrial France, by Dayl M. Hafter,
May 2007, 328 pp, 12 illustrations, £
36.50 $ 53.00
www.eurospangroup.com/bookstore
The subject of women as skilled workers in the
eighteenth century is central to our
understanding of the history of work and
technology in the preindustrial age. While recent
scholarship has dispelled the notion that women
did not enter the workforce until the Industrial
Revolution, debate continues as to the extent to
which women actually participated in skilled work
in the preceding decades.
This book draws upon substantial archival
research in Rouen, Lyon, and Paris to show that
while the vast majority of working women in
eighteenth-century France labored at unskilled,
low-paying jobs, it was not at all unusual for
women to be actively engaged in economic
activities as workers, managers, and merchants.
Some even developed vertically integrated
wholesale and retail businesses, while others
became indispensable to manufacturers through
their technical skill.
In fact, Hafter documents how certain women guild
masters were able to exploit the legal system to
achieve considerable economic independence,
power, wealth, and legal parity with male
masters. She also shows how gender politics
complicated the day-to-day experience of these
working women.
Author Biography:
Daryl M. Hafter is Professor Emerita of History
at Eastern Michigan University. She is the editor
of European Women and Preindustrial Craft (1995).
since
May 2007:
L'arte
del ricamo nel territorio fiorentino dal
cinquecento al XX secolo. Parati e
arredi liturgici di Bagno a Ripoli e Signa; by
Laura Casprini Gentile and Maria Emirena Tozzi
Bellini; in: Quaderni di testi e studi 6, collana
diretta da Roberto Lunardi; Edizione Polistampa,
2007.
ISBN 978-88-596-09218-7, Euro 10. http://www.polistampa.com/asp/sl.asp?id=4105
see exhibition:
Francesca Galloway, London, Catalogue by
Sue Kerry, 245 x 310 mm, 196 pages, 172 colour
ill., Volume II £ 35 + p&p.
To order the catalogue please contact: rukmani@francescgalloway.com
since
January 2007:
Textilien
aus dem alten Peru. Die Sammlungen der
Abegg-Stiftung und des Museums Rietberg, von
Nikkibarla Calonder und Judith Rickenbach, 2007,
ISBN 978-3-905014-32-7
A
Taste for the Exotic, foreign Influences
on Early Eighteenth-Century Silk Designs, edited
by Anna Jolly, with Contributions by Clare
Browne, Sjoukje Colenbrander, Anselm Gerhard,
Ernst Götz, Ulrike Grimm, Anna Jolly, Jean-Paul
Leclercq, Susan Miller, David Mitchell, Roberta
Orsi Landini, Elisabeth Schwarm, Friederike
Ulrichs, Angela Völker, Friederike
Wappenschmidt. Riggisberger Bericht 14, 2007,
ISBN 978-3-905014-30-3
Destins
d’étoffes: Usages, ravaudages
et remplois des textiles sacrés, by Christine
Aribaud, FRAMESPA 2006, (180 p., 40
illustrations) - ISBN : 2-912025-22-2
Mark making Tilleke Schwarz,
introduction by Dr. Jessica Hemmings, Winchester,
UK. Other texts and translation: Tilleke Schwarz,
Alkmaar 2007
A chasuble from the textile
collection of the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
by
Paula Maria Tomaz, in Portuguese, Abstract
of a paper by Paula Maria Tomaz, in: Conservar
Patrimonio, Nr. 1, 2005, p. 55.
Manto de Nossa Senhora da
Oliveira, Estudo
històrico. Conservação e Restauro,
Instituto Português de Conservação e Restauro,
by Paula Maria Tomaz and other authors, in
Portuguese, 48 pages, lavishly illustrated with
colored photos, ISBN 972-99476-I-9, Déposito
legal: 220604/04
Quaker School Girl
Samplers from Ackworth, by Carol
Humphrey, Singapore 2006, in English,
232 pages, lavishly illustrated with numerous
colored photos,
published by needleprint@yahoo.com
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