ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /   CIETA Embroidery Newsletters

Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

No 9
December 1998

Dear members, St Gallen, 15th December 1998
With great sadness I learnt about the death of Donald King (10th of July 1998), Honorary President of CIETA, of Edith Standen New York (17th of July 1998), of Brigitte Menzel Krefeld (6th March of 1998), of Lydia Immenroth Dortmund (18th of March 1998).

For the present Newsletter I received information from Daniele Veron-Denise, from Christine Aribaud, and information about new books by Pat Griffiths.
Beatrijs Sterk from the European Textile Network (ETN) informes about an interesting Symposium in September 1999 in Tbilisi.
I am very glad for your interesting contributions, thank you very much.
With all the best wishes for Christmas and for the coming New Year I remain yours

Anne Wanner-JeanRichard
Textilmuseum / Vadianstrasse 2
CH-9000 St Gallen / Switzerland

general information:
No 9
/ Dec.1998/ 2

general information:

In 1999 the CIETA-Meeting will take place from September 19th to 22nd, in Switzerland.
Very probable one of the excursions on Thursday 23rd of September will be to St.Gallen and I will prepare a small exhibit on chalice veils and lace. Maybe we can have a short meeting of the embroidery group and the lace group in St.Gallen. It could be separate meetings as usual or also a joint meeting?
What do you think about it ? Please send me your suggestions until the end of february 1999.

change of adress:
Nicola J. Shilliam, after 11 years at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, moved to Princeton, where her husband teaches. She shall be doing freelance work and continues to be an active member of the Embroidery Group.
36 Edwards Place, Princeton, NJ 08540 (609) 497-3968, Fax: (609) 497-0944

Nathalie Jarniat
opens her "atelier de broderies", in Versailles, France: Thursday 15th octobre 1998,
and she presents her activities of restauration, restitution, creation and teaching in embroidery for the house and religious art.
Nathalie Jarniat, 3, Rue du Jeu de Paume, 78000 Versailles, tel/fax: 01 39 53 80 00;
RM 920.291.568.150.001.003; SIRET 417.532.405.00012

The Textile Museum St.Gallen shows from September 1998 until April 1999:
Embroidered Treasures
The Sarnen altar cloth, worked in Engelberg, and the Textile Collection’s oldest embroidered specimen, bears an inscription naming Abbot Walther, who held this office from 1317-1333.
Linen embroideries were made in the area of Lake Constance from the 15th to the 17th centuries. Chasubles, humeral veils, communion cloths and burses were manufactured in France, Italy and Switzerland.
In the 16th and the 17th centuries wool embroideries appeared in burghers’ houses. They served as wall-hangings behind benches,as upholstery fabrics for chairs and other pieces of furniture. In the same period small girls practised the art of embroidery on samplers. In England, stump work formed a highlight in embroidery lessons.
Household textiles ornamented with embroideries are extant from the Mediterranean region.
In the 18th century, men, too, wore sumptuously embroidered waistcoats and jackets. In Lyons, the centre of French silk manufacture large-scale emboidery workshops were established, where anonymous embroideresses decorated the fabrics for the much sought-after French clothing fashion well into the 19th century.

Detail from humeral veil,
15th c. from the Ikle collection

Study days: Association Française pour l'Etude du Textile (ASFET), January 1999
Les textiles et le sacre. Usage et ravaaudages
No 9 / Dec.1998/ 3

  if you are interested, please ask for exact dates
(the information letter which I received few weeks ago says January 1998)
3rd Study Days, 21, 22, 23 January 1999
Les Textiles et le sacre. Usages et ravaudages

Christine Aribaud, member of our group,
organises these study days
at Musee Paul Dupuy
13 rue de la Pleau, Toulouse

The program starts Thursday 21st of January and it ends Saturday 23rd January.
Excursion on Sunday 24th January to the Cathedral of Albi.
Cost, for students 50 F, member AFET 130 F, others 170 F
inscription before december 1st (please contact Christine Aribaud)

List lecturers:
- Marlene Albert-LLorca, Professeur d’Antropologie, l’Universite Toulouse II - Le Mirail
- Christine Aribaud, Maître de conferences, Histoire de l’art, Universite Toulouse II - Le Mirail
- Bernard Berthod, Conservateur du musee de Fourviere, Lyon
- Jean Christophe Blanpain, peintre textile, createur contemporain, Toulouse
- Françoise Laurent, responsable de l’atelier de couture de Dojo Zen, Paris
- Eric Palazzo, charge de recherches, Institut de Recherche sur l’Histoire des Textes, Orleans
- Rosa Martin I Ros, Conservateur du Museu Textil i d’Indumentaria, Barcelone
- Anastasia Ozoline, diplômee de l’Institut de Restauration des Oeurvres d’Art, IFROA, IRPA, Bruxelles
- Nicole Pellegrin, chargee de recherche, CNRS, Institut d’Histoire moderne et contemporaine, Paris
- Françoise Piponnier, Directeur d’etudes, Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales, Paris et Lyon
- Martine Plouvier, Conservateur regional de l’Inventaire, Amiens
- Marie-Anne Sire, Adjointe à l’Inspection generale des Monuments Historiques, Toulouse
- Chantal Thouvet, Conservateur du musee diocesain d’art religieux de Blois de 1984 à 1996
- Anne Tricaud, Conservateur au Musee National des Arts et Traditions Populaires, Paris
- Florence Valantin, documentaliste de la maison PRELLE à Lyon et doctorante E.H.E.S.S., Lyon
- Vassilios Zidianakis, doctorant E.H.E.S.S., Paris, createur de costumes de theâtre

exhibition and catalogue, Toulouse 1998/99
Soieries en Sacristie
No 9 / Dec.1998/ 4

Soieries en Sacristie - Festes Liturgiques XVII th - XVIII th c.
by Christine Aribaud
maître de conferences
at the University of Toulouse
preface by Pierre Arizzoli-Clementel

coedition: Toulouse, Musee Paul Dupuy and Somogy, Paris 1998

exposition: 26th of octobre 1998 - 31 of january 1999
at musee Paul Dupuy, 12 rue de la pleau, 31000 Toulouse
open daily, ecxept Tuesdays and holidays, from 10 - 17

The book has 200 pages and 250 coloured illustrations,
paperback 195 F (ask at Musee Paul Dupuy, 12 rue de la pleau, 31000 Toulouse)
bound 260 F.

Most of the text is dedicated to the embroiderers of Toulouse from XVII th- XVIII th c., according to names, professions, work, materials and appropriation to the guilds.
The catalogue presents more than 120 objects.

The appendix
- deals with the evolution of the chasuable forms
- analyses the design of the ornaments used by the embroiderers
- there is a compilation on work costs and materials used by the embroiderers of the 18th c.
- a dictionary
- an index of names and places

Chasuable, embroidered with silk, gold and silver threads,
16th c., Lecoutre, Carmel

Chasuable, 1745, Montpezat-de-Quercy,
old collegiale Saint-Martin

Symposium in Tbilisi, September 1999
The Transcaucasian Textile Route
No 9 / Dec. 1998/ 5

Beatrijs Sterk
fom ETN (European Textile Network)
sent the following information:

The Transcaucasian Textile Route

The organisers of the 1st textile symposium, entitled "a Bridge between East and West" and held in Tbilisi in September 1997, have announced a second international meeting. Scheduled for the period from September 14-16 1999, it will again feature the Caucasian Silk Route as its theme.

Lectures on this subject and on the development of the current Transcaucasian Textile Routes are planned. An exhibition on the same topics will accompany the event that will be co-organised by ETN, the European Textile Network

As usual at ETN meetings, discussion groups dealing with the fields of cultural heritage, contemporary textile cultural production in art, the crafts & industry, and education are again planned. Other exhibitions under preparation are "Caucasian Textiles and Costume", "Student pieces of the Tiblisi Academy of Arts" and a show presenting the results of a project on ethnographic embroidery.

The accompanying events will include an international felt workshop to be held from 3-11 September 1999. This will involve a trip by helicopter to the Tusheti Mountains in the Caucasus, where the workshop will be held in a village near the border with Daghestan. Artesans from Chechnia, Daghestan and Georgia will demonstrate how felt cloaks, boots, hats and carpets are made.

Following the Tbilisi symposium, a four-day tour to Erivan in Armenia and Baku in Azerbaijan is planned. In Erivan, the group will be accompanied by ETN members from Armenia, while in Baku the director of the local Museum of Applied Art will take on the role of tour guide.

The proverbial Caucasian hospitality will ensure that this combined working meeting and cultural tourist event will become unforgettable.

For further information please contact

Mrs Nino Kipshidze, Georgian Textile Group, Rustaveli 54, GEO-380006 TBILISI

tel: +995-32/999984
fax: /230147


Mrs Irina Kochoridze, National museum of Art, dept. historic textiles, TBILISI

Book review: The Fine Art of Textiles
The Collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art
No 9 / Dec.1998 / 6

Dilys E. Blum,
The Fine Art of Textiles, The Collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art,
Philadelphia Museum of Art, 1997

illustrated in colour and black and white, glossary, bibliography

sent by Pat Griffiths:

La revue du LOUVRE et des Musees de France
Les tentures brodees de l'Arsenal au Musee national de la Renaissance
No 9 / Dec.1998/ 7

Les tentures brodees de l’Arsenal
au Musee National de la Renaissance:
Nouvelles recherches iconographiques

sent by the author Daniele Veron-Denise,
reported by A.W.:

Book reprint: Richard Shorleyker in 1632
A Schole-House for the Needle
No 9 / Dec.1998/ 8

A Schole-House for the Needle
a reprint of Richard Shorleyker in 1632
with an historical background
by Santina M. Levey
A reprint of a rare Lace and Embroidery Pattern book. Over 60 illustrations of lace and embroidery patterns from the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries.
With an Introduction from The Lace Guild and a Foreword from The Embroiderers’ Guild.

Available only from: Elizabeth Mason 44 Beaumaris Road Newport Shropshire TF10 7BN
Price £ 12.50 each plus P&P - UK £1.25,
surface mail: all countries £2.10
Air Mail: Europe £2.45 - USA £4.40 - Australia and Canada £5.15

Summer exhibition: Textilie 1998: Samplers
Groninger Museum, Groningen, Netherlands
No 9 / Dec.1998/ 9

Groninger Museum, Groningen, Netherlands
Summer exhibition: Textilia, 4 July - 13 September 1998
sent by Pat Griffiths:
The textile collection of the Groninger Museum is virtually unknown, even in the Netherlands, so this small exhibition was extremely welcome. It consisted mainly of samplers, of which the museum has a large number, almost all those shown being thought to have been made in the town or province of Groningen. They include two fine whitework examples thought to date from the first half of the 17th century.

White embroidery was also to be seen on pillowcovers and a finely made baby’s jacket and an early 19th-century dress with tambourwork. Other items included excellent examples of quilting and embroidered baby’s caps, one for a boy (in six sections), one for a girl (in three sections), dated 1706.

Also on show was a book of patterns compiled by a Groningen woman, Dato Scholtens, in 1764. This is entitled "Newly invented clocks or figures to be knitted, stitched or embroidered". In a long introduction the author remarks, "I already did drawings of this sort when I was a child of about 10 years old, and now I have reached the age of 60, I thought to myself, many people leave a memento behind; and so my thoughts fell on the idea of making a Drawing Book for each of my son’s children (who are now four in number and with this in mind, to encourage them to be diligent and to waste no time; For when I had any time over in my youth, I mostly sat down to write or to draw for money or for pleasure." The book contains 50 patterns in five groups separated by drawings of Hope, Charity, Faith and Justice, two alphabets and various patterns for stockings and gloves.

Catalogue by Witney Antiques, 1997
Samplers, Town and Country
No 9 / Dec.1998 / 10

exhibition of Samplers
Rebecca Scott, Witney Antiques
96-100 Corn Street, Witney, Oxon. OX8 7BU.

Tel: 01993 703902, Fax: 01993 779852
Oxford 1997, ISBN 09518186 51
48 pages, 47pictures in colour

reported by A.W.
The 5th sampler exhibition of Whitney Antiques of 1997 choses the theme of British and Irish place names.


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