ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / CIETA Embroidery Newsletters
|Thanks again very much
for all your contributions.
In the present letter you will find 2 programs of Symposiums. There was a discussion about the dates of the study days in Tiblisi, Georgia. And they are set now one week before the CIETA-meeting. If you will be visiting one of the meetings or conferences, please send me a short impression of this event for the next newsletter.
I am grateful to Karen Stolleis and
to Pat Griffiths who sent information about exhibits and
articles in exhibition catalogues. Daniela Lunghi sent a
report about a Sicilian gold embroidery. Ruth Bleckwenn
has some questions on Dresden work.
CIETA-Meeting September 19th to
22nd 1999, in Bern, Switzerland:
Mrs Tatiana Kossoourova,
from State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia
The Textile Museum
|Bags and handkerchiefs:
The exhibition is mainly devoted to early Biedermeier times, with primarily those bags on display that had been fashionable since the 18th century: the pompadours, the reticules, tobacco pouches and purses. In the 19th century, the way in which some handkerchiefs and pouches were produces evidenced certain similarities:
In Eastern Switzerland, embroidery had been a cottage industry for women since the mid-18th century, but a further development of fine white-work embroidery could be observed early in the 19th century. The famine of those years is likely to have resulted in embroidery being seen as a new way of earning a living, and in new techniques being used. At any rate, it is said that in 1818, two Frenchwomen gave an embroidery course in Gais (Appenzell) for the first time.
In the same years, Germany also suffered a famine, and knitting with beads became a cottage industry in the area of "Schwaebisch Gmuend". This special knitting technique was organised along the lines of a system whereby an agent would first provide homeworkers with the necessary materials and then forward
Detail of kerchief, 2nd half 19th c.,
|the finished work to the company he served, which in turn would sell and export the products. Women from Eastern Switzerland worked in a similar way in their homes, but also outside their homeland, for instance in big European cities, where they found work in needle businesses, or in spas, where they would take orders form noble customers.|
in Tbilisi, September 1999
2nd international Symposium in Tiblisi, Georgia from September 14th to 18th
International felt workshop from September 2nd to 12th
All the participants of the Symposium are invited to a trip from 18th to 23rd of September 1999 to Armenia and Aszerbaidschan. With a minimum of 20 participants the program will be held.
cost of the 4 symposium
days: US $ 200
The Pogram of the 2nd International Symposium
First day: Tuesday,
14th of September
2nd day: Wednesday,
15th of September (parallel meetings)
3rd day: Thursday,
16th of September (parallel meetings in the morning)
4th day: Friday,
17th of September
Tapisserie de Bayeux: lart de broder
du 6 octobre au 10 octobre 1999
Centre Culturel International de Cerisy la Salle
Participation aux frais: sadresser directement à Cerisy
Internet: Site de Cerisy:
(suivies de debats):
· Histoire de la Broderie: S.A. Brown: Analyse critique des publications depuis dix ans, V. Flint: Sa reception par le public medieval. D. Hill: Ses representations au XIXe siecle, S. Lemagnen: Nouvel eclairage sur la mission menee en 1941 par le Pr. Jankuhn.
· La Broderie: une oeuvre textile: I. Bedat, M.-H. Didier, B. Girault, B. Oger, H. Pelvillain, N. de Reynies, G. Vial: Bilan des expertises effectuees lors du demontage de 1982-83
· La Broderie: un document dhistoire - La broderie et les sources medievales:
M. Chibnall: Orderic Vital, H. Legros: Les sources de langue française au XIIe siecle, E. Van Houts: Lecho de la conquête dans les sources latines, G. Labory: La conquête de lAngleterre dans les Chroniques des XIIIe - XVe siecles - Le recit historique: F. Neveux: Une contribution à lhistoire de Guillaume le Conquerant, P. Bouet: Une oeuvre pro anglaise? O. Renaudeau: Le costume militaire, A.-M. Flambard-Hericher: Larcheologie, J. France: Lapport à lhistoire de la guerre.
· La Broderie: une oeuvre dart - La comparaison avec les autres arts et les autres cultures: M. Bayle, W. Grape. - Le rythme narratif: B. Levy. - Le symbole et la stylisation: B. English, M Pastoureau.
Bien quelle ait ete
souvent etudiee, cette Tapisserie conserve encore
une grande part de mystere et suscite toujours de
about some "Dresden Work"
Some "Dresden Work"
in the Kunstgewerbemuseum Dresden
(Museum of Applied Art, Dresden)
Dr. Ruth Bleckwenn, Muenster
Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Applied Art) Dresden
preserves 125 pieces of Dresden Work (Point de Saxe).
Seven of which were bought from Kanonikus Bock, Aachen in
1875. Concerning two of these there are parallels to
other pieces, one in the Textilmuseum St.Gallen; another
one is part of a kerchief, which had been divided and the
other part is to be found in the Museum fuer Angewandte
Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) in Vienna. One (only a
small fragement) is Dresden Work too.
But four pieces are not like any other Dresden Work I have seen in the Kunstgewerbemuseum Dresden, in the Textilmuseum St.Gallen, in the Museum fuer Angewandte Kunst, Wien and in other museums. Here are the pictures and some information about the stitches:
|The design and the
technique considerably differ from the other pieces of
Dresden Work in the 18th century.
I would be very grateful for any kind of advice concerning pieces looking like these. Especially valuable is information about the origin of these pieces.
Please write to: Dr. Ruth Bleckwenn, Muenzstr. 6, D - 48143 Muenster, Germany
and restauration, Genova, Italy
of the early 18th c., and its restauration
in: Bollettino dei Musei Civici Genovesi (in italian language)
XVIII - N. 52-53-54, 1996
by M. Daniela Lunghi, Claudia Santamaria
|In 1987 the collections
of textiles of Genova received a precious present of Mrs.
Giuliana Parodi of Genova: 2 wall hangings of green silk,
embroidered in gold and silk from the collection Florio
The fabrics have been produced in a manufactory of Sicily in the early 18th c. The pieces measure 186 by 153 cm. They are embroidered with different metal threads and small perles of corals.
The hangings were part of a marriage decoration of originally 6 pieces. The conservation was necessary and the restauration works started in 1996.
The article at first it deals with
the pattern of the embroidery:
The article then deals
with embroidery techniques and materials. Different types
of metal threads are explained.
Finally there is the description of the restauration of the pieces, which was done with great care.
close-up of the fabric
after the restauration
Collection of Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe
|The collection of the
"Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe"
from a contribution in "Textilkunst 2/1999, p. 24,25"
Landesmuseum shows in his permanent exhibition textiles
from the turkish booty, carpets, costumes, hangings of
tents, saddle-clothes and so on.
Less known is the rich textile collection in the storage. This collection has its origin in the late 19th century and served as usual at this time, as models for the students.
Today it comprises about 6000 pieces mostly silk fabrics, linen damascs and printed fabrics. There are also about 250 embroideries, 120 laces and 60 tapestries. All the more one can find about 500 costumes and a similar number of folk costumes.
This collection is not treated scientifically at all. There are new showrooms but unfortunately there is very little to be seen of the collection: some coptic textiles are exposed in the antique department. Some other pieces are shown in the "Museum am Markt" which is the art nouveau and design department of the Badisches Landesmuseum.
It is however possible to make arrangements with the curator of the collection
Mrs. Herrbach-Schmidt Tel
Tablecloth, tapestry weave, wool, 1919-20, designed by E.L. Kirchner
fabric with animals and figures, designed by J.B. Huet,
Catalogue: Cîteau 1098 - 1998
wrote zwo contributions in the exhibition catalogue Cîteaux 1098 - 1998.
Rheinische Zisterzienser im Spiegel der Buchkunst
Landesmuseum Mainz, 22. Nov. 1998 - 12 Februar 1999
sent by Karen Stolleis
Nr. 36 Chasuable,
cross probably Cologne around 1450, coat of arms 1695.
Altarfrontal, Rhineland (Cologne ?), 1615
in the centre of the Antependium there is the reproduction of St. Bernhards vision. The year is embroidered below the central scene.
The Altar frontal consists of several parts and the present form probably was given in the 19th c. Originally it was an applique work with embroidery, Saints and stilised plants are shown on a white linen ground.
A very similar altarfrontal formerly belonged to the Schnuetgen Collection Cologne. In the centre there were the Saints Dominicus and Theresia before Mary. Both embroideries were probably embroidered in the same workshop in the early 17th c, maybe in a womens convent which was specialised in applique work.
article in: bulletin van
The Martyrdom of St Lucy by the Master of the Figdor Deposition
in: Bulletin van het Rijksmuseum, 46, 1998, pp. 264-74
text in Dutch, English summery on pp. 348-9
illustrated in black and white
contributed by Pat Griffiths:
Exhibition and catalogue:
Curious Works from the seventeenth century
Catalogue by The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
Williamsburg, Virginia, 1998
reported by A.W.
exhibition catalogue: Musee
Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire, Brussels, 1998
Isabella / Albrecht & Isabella, 1589-1621
Exhibition catalogue: ed. L. Duerloo & W. Thomas
Musee Royaux dArt et dHistoire, Brussels, 1998
in French or Dutch
illustrated in colour and black and white, bibliography
contributed by Pat Griffiths:
Biography: a needle woman of the
late 19th c.
|The life of Therese de
From an article in "Textilkunst 3 / 1979"
by Marianne Stradal
|Therese de Dillmont was
born on october 10th 1846. Her father, a major in the
army, died in 1857 and at this time her mother moved with
her children to Vienna. In 1864 she wrote to the emperor
Franz Joseph, begging for help with the education of her
youngest daughter. She then received 80 Gulden every year
until 1868. Therese was educated as a governess and a
teacher. It seems that she also visited the embroidery
school in Vienna which was founded in 1874. During all
her life she was a friend of Mrs Bach the director of the
In 1884 she
became engaged at Mulhouse in the world wide known
embroidery yarn fatory. In 1886 her encyclopedia of
feminine handwork was published. This book has been
translated into 17 languages and it was published over
and over again up to the present day.
In 1889 Therese de Dillmont married Josef Scheuermann. The needlework factory in Mulhouse did not like this at all. One year later, in 1890 Therese died. Her niece with the same name succeeded her. In her working contract it said that she was not supposed to get married. The reason was that the name de Dillmont could not possibly be changed by marriage because it was so closely related to the factory and to the books.
Book by: Beryl Dean and
and Elizabeth Grace Thomson.
Pioners of Stitchery in the 1930s, London 1996
by Beryl Dean and Pamela Pavitt
illustrated in black and white and colour
contributed by Pat Griffiths:
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