ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / CIETA Embroidery Newsletters
|After the CIETA meeting,
on September 23rd, we had a joint meeting of the
embroidery and lace group in St.Gallen. There was an
interesting discussion on gold lace and on the importance
and value of microscopic research.
As for the embroidery group I feel we should start a project. I proposed a study on chalice veils in the Museums collections.
I want to inform members, that my job at the Textilmuseum in St.Gallen comes to an end on 28th february 2000, for reasons of my age. But I will continue to send to you the embroidery Newsletter and I will always be very grateful for your contributions. Thank you very much. Best wishes, yours
My successor at the Textilmuseum
St.Gallen will be Ursula Karbacher, lic.phil.,
also member of CIETA and of our embroidery News group,
and she will start in St.Gallen January 3rd 2000. I will
introduce her and I will be at the Textilmuseum until the
end of February 2000.
priv. e-mail: Wanner@datacomm.ch
Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols, Via di Mantigano 174, 50142 Firenze, Italia, Tel/Fax: +39-55-78 78 158
changes of adress:
Edward Maeder, 112 Cuba Hill Road, Green Lawn, NY 10021 e-mail: email@example.com
27th october 1999 - 9th January 2000
The Turn of the Millennium - Anchor Promotion prize for Embroidery Design
Cologne, Freiburg and Brimstage/UK, the work done for the
embroidery competition under the motto "The Turn of
the Millennium" is now also on show in Switzerland.
This competition, which was run for the sixth time, is a
fixed component of the European textile art scene and is
now on exhibition in St.Gallens Textile Museum for
the first time.
From among the 211 contenders from 25 countries, 71 participants from 16 countries reached the jurys shortlist. Among them were 24 from Germany, 14 from the Unitied Kingdom, seven from the Netherlands and seven from Switzerland. The artists submitted their original work, and the jury made the final selection for the exhibition catalogue, and chose the prize-winners of the 6th Anchor Promotion Prize.
The members of the jury chose the embroidery Wende/sich wenden - Turn/to turn - by Heidrun Schimmel from Munich. Another two works from the United Kingdom namely Breaking down the Barriers by Anna Jane Ray and Millennium Itinerary by Rachel Howard were considered worthy of a prize. The previous competitionss prize winner, Susanne Klinke, was among the front-runners with her work, Angst.
The catalogue documents an astonishing variety of creations. It is on sale at the Museums box office and costs CHF 25.00.
Conference: Berne 1999
The textile treasure of Marienkirche, Danzig - results of a new study
The textile treasure of the Marienkirche, Danzig, consists of liturgical vestments, altar pieces and embroideries dating from the 13th to 16th centuries; by the quantity and quality of its objects, it is one of the most important German treasures. Published in 1931-1938 by Walter Mannowsky, most of the textiles were brought into western Germany during the war. They are since been kept (and partly exhibited) in Luebeck. Now, a new catalogue is being compiled; technical analyses of the silks as well as studies of the patterns of the vestments and of the imagery and functions of the embroideries are being undertaken. The paper will present first results.
Embroidered vestments offered to the Hôtel-Dieu of Château-Thierry by a Swiss in the service of Louis XIV
The ancient hospital of Château-Thierry (Aisne) possesses collections of great richness, of which numerous elements are remarkable both in themselves and because of the personality of their donors. Those were Pierre Stoppa, an eminent Swiss officer in the service of Louis XIV, and of his wife Anne-Charlotte de Gondy, cousin of the celebrated Cardinal of Retz. Among the multiple gifts which they never ceased making to the Hôtel-Dieu of Château-Thierry, we hope to present the different embroidered furnishing textiles and vestments which have survived: a cope, dalmatics, accessories and many altar frontals.
The Textile reliques of the blessed Christina von Stommeln
In 1994 the shrine which houses Christinas remains was opened for restoration. In it were two small relic panels, a pair of gloves and a string bag which all seemed to be contemporary with her lifetime (1242-1312) or her elevation (1339).
The textile objects will be discussed and put into the context given by the Codex Juliecensis which was written during her life as an argument for her sanctification.
Conference: Berne 1999
Cambridge, Great Britain
A tribute to Donald King: Silken embroidery and Orthodox faith in Byzantium
Precious embroidered silk vestments and furnishings acted as symbols par excellence of Orthodox Byzantine Faith. Their widespread use in Byzantium was documented throughout the period from the 6th to the 15th centuries, not least at Hagia Sophia in Constantinople.
This paper, as a tribute to my teacher Donald King, explores the tenets of Orthodox Byzantine Faith embodied in the silks and it asks how far these precious cloths reflected changing relationships between Church and State in Byzantium. Importanf unpublished materials from St Johnss monastery, Patmos, and St Catherines monastery, Sinai, form a focus for this discussion. The silks of both treasuries are presently under preparation for publication by the author.
|Rosa Martin I Ros,
The Cope of Daroca
The Cope of Daroca has been preserved in the Museo Arqueológico Nacional of Madrid since 1872. It takes its name from the Collegiale of Daroca (Aragon) where it was held for a long time. It is of English origin, embroidered in opus anglicanum, and dates from the end of the 13th century. The central part has three scenes from the Life of Jesus and the Virgin, from bottom to top: The Annunciation, the Crucifixion and Jesus worshiped by the angels. The sides contain twelve scenes from Genesis. The orphrey did not belong originally to the cope but comes from another piece of opus anglicanum dating from the 14th century and depicts martyred saints, kings and bishops.
The embroidery is on a linen cloth, the grounds are gold while the scenes and the costumes are in polychrome silk; the faces of the figures are only embroidered for the features and the centre of the cheeks. It is a masterpiece of the finest period of opus anglicanum.
|Elsa E. Gudjónsson,
Icelandic ecclesiastical embroideries of the middle ages. A survey
Surviving Icelandic medieval embroideries are all ecclesiastical, consisting of, at most, nineteen altarfrontals, two burses, an altar curtain and a wall hanging, refill. They can be dated earliest from late 14th century or about 1400, some from first half 16th century, while others may be medieval or early post-Reformation, as only one (due to lack of funding) has as yet been dated by C 14 method.
The embroideries are decorated mainly with devotional pictures executed in wool in refilsaumur (laid and couched work). The paper will discuss the embroideries as to provenace, documentary records, survival, techniques and materials, decoration and date.
The Malterer Embroidery
The monumental hanging is one of the most remarkable embroideries of the early 14th century around the upper Rhine. The theme related to the power of women (Weiberlisten) is of particular interest: the stories of four famous lovers, belonging to different ages, the biblical, the Greek and Roman antiquity and the contemporary age of chivalry are told in four pairs of scenes. The context of the scenes testifies the power of women to inspire love and desire even in the strongest and wisest of men. Therefore the question of the original destination of the hanging remains: was it intended as a wedding present or was it dedicated to the nunnery in Freiburg where it has been found?
|At the meeting in
St.Gallen on 23rd September 1999
I proposed to start a project for the Embroidery Group.
This could be a study on embroidered chalice veils in our Museums collections.
Possible questions to be studied: time of origin, and country of origin, embroidery techniques.
please write to the Newsletter whether you are interested in other points of interest as well
Questions to members:
please tell me for the next Newsletter, until the end of december 1999:
name of your museum collection...........................................
1) the number (approximate)
of chalice veils in your collection
2) the literature used to
determine the embroidery stitches in the different
German: Therese de
Dillemont. Rene Boser und I. Peter.
Are there other points of
interest that can be discussed ?, as for instance:
|The chalice veils
presented in St.Gallen, 23rd of September 1999:
embroidery lace origin collector note
1 23960 first half 17th middle
17th continental Ikle
|Raiment for the
by Christa C. Mayer-Thurmann, Chicago 1975. Page 27: Chalice Veil
name: Latin: Velum, German: Kelchvelum, English: Chalice Veil, French: Voile de Calice, Italian: Velo del Calice, Spanish: Velo para Caliz, Polish: Velum
The function of the chalice veil is to cover the chalice and the paten until the moment of Communion and thereafter. Based upon the dimensions of surviving 17th and 18th centuries examples it was an accessory which fell generally between the dimensions of 50-60cm in a square.
The introduction of the calice veil in its 17th - 18th Century appearance goes only back to the 16th Century, although the so-called offertorium, also known as mappula, sindon, sudarium, mantile and palla was in existence around the 13th Century. Its function differed slightly from the 17th - 18th Century chalice veils use.
In comparison to the burse, which had to be lined with linen and the corporal which always had to be made of linen, the chalice veil had to be made of silk and could be further decorated with gold and silver metal threads either through brocading or embroidering, according to the writing of Saint Charles Borromeo. In some places it was not accepted immediately. Cologne had to pass a decree in 1651 which finally introduced the chalice veil: "OMNES SACERDOTES DEINCEPS VELUM AD COOPERIENDUM CALICEM ADHIBEANT".
page 32: Humeral / Humeral Veil
name: Latin: Humeralis, German: Schultertuch, English: Humeral, French: Humeral, Italian Omerale, Spanish: Humeral, Polish: Humeral
Function: Humeral and humeral veil can be traced do the Latin word humerus - shoulder. As a liturgical vestment it is a wide oblong veil or scarf, worn around the shoulders at High Mass by the sub-deacon at the time when he holds the paten between the offertory and the Paternoster. It is also worn by the priest at the moment when he raises the monstrance to give the Benediction. Furthermore, the humeral is used to cover the celebrants hands while holding a sacred vessel, be it the chalice, the paten, the pyx or the monstrance.
by Joseph Braun, Koeln, 1924, S. 213 - 215, das Kelchvelum
Geschichtliches: Das christliche Altertum und das Mittelalter haben unser heutiges Kelchvelum nicht gekannt. Die Einfuehrung zu Rom faellt in die Zeit zwischen der Entstehung des Ordo Burchards und der Herausgabe des Roemischen Missales durch Pius V. (1570).
Zu Mailand wurde es durch den hl. Karl Borromaeus vorgeschrieben, wenn es dort nicht schon vorher Eingang gefunden hatte. Nach der "Instructio" Heiligen sollte das Kelchvelum wenigstens 66cm im Geviert messen und ringsum eine leichte Randverzierung aus Seide, Silber oder Gold erhalten.
In Koeln wurde seine Verwendung erst nach ausdruecklicher Bestimmung der Synode von 1651 allgemein. Einfluss auf seine Einfuehrung hatte die Annahme des Roemischen Missales, in dem es vorgeschrieben ist.
|Dictionnaire des Arts
Liturgiques, 19e - 20e siecle
par Bernard Berthod, Elisabeth Hardouin-Fugier
Voile de Calice. n. m. (Chalice veil, Kelchvelum, Velo di calice).
Selon la rubrique du Missel, le calice doit être couvert par une piece de soie carree ou rectangulaire lors de son transport et pendant la premiere partie de la messe jusquà loffertoire. Ce voile, souvent taille dans la même etoffe que la chasuble, peut être orne de broderies, la doublure doit être egalement en soie. Il mesure entre 60 et 70 cm de côte. Son usage est aujourdhui pratiquement abandonne.
(Barbier de Montault, Le Costume, T. 2, pp. 17, 165-171. - Dumortier J., Revue pratique de Liturgie et de Musique sacree, Lille. T. 2, 1917, pp. 290-293. - Lesage, 1952, col. 1099-1100).
|S. 228ff: das
Schultervelum ist aelter als das Kelchvelum.
Es ist ein auf Nacken und Schultern ruhendes, mit den Enden vorn ueber die Brust herabfallendes Tuch, das zum Verhuellen der Haende beim Anfassen bestimmter Gegenstaende dient. Der Umstand, dass es den Schultern aufliegt ist unwesentlich und steht mit dem Zwecke in keinem inneren Zusammenhang.
Man unterscheidet das Sakramentsvelum (sakramentaler Segen, theophorische Prozessionen und Versehgaenge), das subdiakonale Velum (Subdiakon verhuellt die bis zu den Augen emporgehobene Patene), das Akolythenvelum (bei Pontifikalfunktionen traegt ein Akolyth die Mitra, so oft der Bischof sie ablegen muss).
Das Akolythenvelum kennt bereits der Ordo des Gajetanuns (1311). Das Pontifikale des Durandus, welches etwas aelter ist als der Ordo des Gajetanus, weiss dagegen von ihm noch nichts.
Das Velum kam vermutlich in Rom zu Gebrauch. Allerdings scheint die Form des Schultervelums im 14. Jh. unbekannt und wurde fruehestens im Laufe des 15. Jhs ueblich. Das Sakramentsvelum findet im 15. roemischen Ordo (um 1400) erste Erwaehnung, es umzog aber noch nicht beide Schultern. Ausserhalb Roms war der Brauch verschieden.
Acquisition: Bern, 1999
|The Historisches Museum
embroidered bed valance
Acquisition at Auction Drouot,
Hôtel des Ventes de Neuille (Paris), April 15th 1999
|reported by A.W,
|It is a wool
embroidery, bearing the date of 1604, measuring 46cm by
with coat of arms of the Bernese family
Niklaus Wyttenbach 1550 - 1604
and Salome Thormann born 1556 - ?initials of daughter Barbara Wittenbach, born in - ?
married 1605 Hans von Bueren
second marriage: 1630 Franz Gueder
The embroidery is worked on a linen
ground (15 threads per cm) in coloured wool and silk
yarns and metal threads. The date 1604 and initials NW ,
SD on top and BW below are added.
article in: Jacquard, n.
Buratti frangiati bianco-rossi nei corredi della carnia
in: Jacquard, No 38/1999
numero di Primavera
a cura della Fondazione Arte della Seta Lisio
Red and white fringed
"Buratti" in Carnia
With Golden Thread
Preussische Schloesser und Gaerten
with the exhibition there will be guided tours and
inscriptions are possible: tel. 0331/9694-317
Because of their fragility the
embroideries cannot be permanently exhibited. Usually the
pieces remain in the storage rooms. About 100 objects of
the former royal and imperial possessions from 1700 until
the end of the monarchy in 1918 give a unique survey. The
most noble task of the court embroideries was the
representative decoration. Inventaries of the castle and
witnesses of the past give evidence of room decorations
and the richly embroidered tapestries.
back of throne of Frederick the Great, gold relief embroidery by Matthias Immanuel Heynitschek, around 1740
the workshop, embroidery after
|there also was a Colloquium
on October 16th, from 9 am until 6 pm in the castle
embroideries of the 18th and 19th centuries and their historic background
Susanne Evers, SPSG, Einfuehrung
- Nadja Kuschel, SPSG, Goldstickereien in Preussen, Techniken
- Dr. Uta-Christiane Bergemann, SPSG, Goldstickereien in Preussen, Werkstaetten
- Sigrid Gerlitz, SPSG: Abenteuer Restaurierung
- Dr. Anne Wanner, St.Gallen, Maschinenstickerei im 19. Jh.
- Dr. Dagmar Neuland-Kitzerow, Berlin, das Sticken der Frauen und Maedchen, 2. Haelfte 19. Jh.
- Christa Jeitner, Brandenburg, Stickereien der Augustinerinnen aus dem Neuwerkkloster in Erfurt, 17. und 18. Jh.
- Friederike Ebner von Eschenbach, Helmstedt und Potsdam: die Wiederbegruendung der Paramentenstickerei im Kloster Marienberg in Helmstedt, 19. Jh.
- Dr. Dela von Boeselager, Koeln, ein Stickauftrag fuer die Kaiserkroenung
- Dr. Petra Hesse, Mannheim, Paramentenstickerei des Historismus im Rheinland
|Abstract of some of
of the Colloquium
reported by A.W.
Bergemann, SPSG, Gold embroideries at the
Dr. Dela von
Boeselager, Koeln, an embroidery order for the
the emperors coronation.
Dr. Petra Hesse,
Mannheim, vestment embroidery of historism in
Book review: Historical
Fashion in Detail
|A. Hart and S. North
Historical Fashion in Detail. The 17th and 18th Centuries
Victoria & Albert Museum 1998
by Pat Griffiths
illustrated in colour and black and white, glossary, bibliography.
Amsterdam, June to October 1999
De Dansende Demonen van Mongolië
(The Dancing Demons of Mongolia)
Catalogue of the exhibition in Amsterdam 26th June to 17th October 1999
by Pat Griffiths
The exhibition of Mongolian art, of which this book is the catalogue, was held in Amsterdam from 26 June to 17 October 1999.
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