ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / Newsletter 15

ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / CIETA Embroidery Newsletters

Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

No 15
February 2001

Dear members,

Rheinfelden, February 12th, 2001

Contributors to this Newsletter are: Karen Finch, Marianne Gächter, Daniela Lunghi, Margaret Ribbert, Gudrun Sporbeck, Monica Vroon. Thank you all very much for your interesting information.

A new problem arose this time: some of the exhibitions announced by members were alsready finished before my Newsletter was ready. Therefore I started a new section on my homepage, one on exhibitions and one on bookreviews. If you send information to me I will publish it instantly there. Later on you will find these comments also in the Newsletter.

Please contiunue to inform me about chalice veils, and I would be very glad for your opinion about the vocabulary, so far I only had very few comments.

Best wishes yours

Anne Wanner-JeanRichard
e-mail: wanner@datacomm.ch
http://www.dplanet.ch/users/wanner/index.html

Newsletter sent from
Textilmuseum / Vadianstrasse 2
CH-9000 St Gallen / Switzerland

General information:
No 15/ February 2001 / 2

General information

Gudrun Sporbeck informs:
That there is an important exhibition in Topkapi Sarayi-Museum in Istanbul since november 23rd 2000, from the collection of tents of osmanic emperors
The rich embroideries are published for the first time in a catalogue of Mrs Prof. Nurhan Atasoy.

The Schnütgen Museum in Köln Germany showed from November 9th 2000 until January 28th 2001:
a late medieval chasuable from the collection, which has has been restored.
opening hours:
tues-fri: 10 to 17h, sat. and sun: 11 to 17h, every first wednesday of the month until 20 h.
Tel: 0221.22 12 23 10, fax: 0221.22 12 84 89
e-mail: schnuetgen@netcologne.de, internet: www.museenkoeln.de

The exhibition:"Dresdner Spitzen" will be shown (see also Newsletter No 14)
12th January until 18th March 2001 in:
D-41541 Dormagen-Zons, at Kreismuseum Zons, Kulturzentrum, Schlossstrasse 1
and
29th March until April 2001 in:
D-33602 Bielefeld, at Stiftung Huelsmann, Ravensburger Park 3

The Reiss-Museum Mannheim showed in Zeughaus C5, "des Kaisers teure Kleider, Mode am Wiener Kaiserhof", from October 10th 2000 until January 14th 2001

The Textile-Museum St.Gallen:
Vadianstrasse 2
CH-9000 St.Gallen

tel: ++41 71 222 17 44
fax: ++41 71 223 42 39
e-mail: info@textilmuseum.ch
internet: www.textilmuseum.ch

permanent exhibition:
The Hanni Zahner Collection, utensils for useful and beautiful needlework

Seminar on ancient textiles:
Poldi Pezzoli Museum, Milan
No 15/ February 2001 / 3

Segretaria organizzativa del Corso di Qualificazione sui Tessuti Antichi
Museo Poldi Pezzoli
Via Manzoni 12
I-20121 Milano

Fax: +39-02-8690788, email: museopoldipezzoli@tiscalinet.it

Lavinia Galli, curator of Poldi Pezzoli Museum in Milan announces:
Seminar on ancient textiles: Conservation and restoration:

the course is intended for conservators and restorers who are ore will be working with textiles in museums.
For more information about purpose, qualifications, program, language of courses ask the above adress.
Admission: the course is free of charge for a maximum of 25 persons. A selection will be done by means of a short curriculum vitae which has to be sent by interested people to Poldi Pezzoli Museum.
Please send your request and the curriculum until 10th of march 2001 to the above adress. The selected persons will be informed by telephone.
Duration and locality: 19-23 march and 2-6 april 2001, two full weeks with a total of 72 lessons
In Museo Poldi Pezzoli, Milan

The courses will be given by the following lecturers and specialists:
Textile historians and professors of fashion: Roberta Orsi Landini, Maria Luisa Rizzini, Maria Teresa Binaghi
Restorers: Mary Westermann Bulgarella, Francesco Pertegato
Curators and directors of museums: Chiara Buss, Carla Paggi, Annalisa Zanni
Responsibles for multimedia projects: Anna Della Ventura, Isabella Gagliardi, Paola Carrara del C.N.R.I.T.I.M. di Milano

Didactic materials: all participants will receive a CD-Rom of the museum's collection of historic textiles,
and 2 numbers of "Notizie soffici" which is a textile magazine of Museo Poldi Pezzoli.

Short information about the program:
Part I - first week - is dedicated to the conservation and restoration of tapestries, embroideries, costumes and analysis of fabrics:
Lace and embroideries in paintings of Brera collection
Problems of conservation and restoration of tapestries
Visit of the collection of costume and textile in Castello Sforzesco
Materials, fibres, colours, iconografic language. Signs of history and usage.

Part II - second week: is dedicated to lace and to the catalogation, examination, valuation of historic textiles:
Visit of Ratti Collection in Como
Lace, technique and manufacture
Informatic program of C.N.R.I.T.I.M.
Lace of the collection of Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Acquisition: Textile Museum St.Gallen
No 15/ February 2001 / 4

New Acquisition
Textilmuseum St.Gallen
Vadianstrasse 2, CH 9000 St.Gallen

The Textilmuseum acquired in autumn 2000 a table cloth with whitework embroidery (TM 50202) with scenes of the life of Napoleon, this table cloth is very similar to the embroidery published in Newsletter 3, Sept 1996, of V&A Museum London, No Circ 128-1951.

V&A Museum London, No Circ 128-1951

St.Gallen, part of table cloth, whitework embroidery, TM 50202

A set of the same kind of embroideries, also with scenes of Napoleon and his army, was given to the museum shortly. There are: one runner, 12 place mats and 12 napkins (No TM 50317-50330). An american lady bought these embroideries in Switzerland in 1930. They belong to a group of embroideries which have been worked in Eastern Switzerland, but it is not clear when and in which workshop. The museum already has a table cloth with scenes of Napoleon in its collection, which probably was made 100 years ago.
In a number of private collections there are embroideries of the same kind with a broad range of different subjects. As for the napoleonic scenes many of them are embroidered after paintings as published in:

- Napoleon. Von Corsica bis St. Helena. Original-Illustrationen nach berühmten Gemälden von Meissonnier, David, Vernet, Delaroche, Gerome, Gérard, Gros und Steuben, Hamburg, o.J.
- Napoleon und das Zeitalter der Befreiungskriege in Bildern, von F.M. Kircheisen, München und Leipzig 1914.

If any members have similar embroideries in their collections, the Textilmuseum and Anne Wanner are very interested to get every possible information about them.

Exhibition: Historisches Museum Basel Switzerland
No 15 / February 2001 / 5

Exhibition
Historisches Museum Basel
Haus zum Kirschgarten
Elisabethenstrasse 27
CH- 4051 Basel

tel: +4161-2860500
fax:+4161-2860501
email: historischesmuseumbasel@bs.ch

5th of April until 2nd of September

"Himmlische Rosen ins irdische Leben"
19th century pattern for embroidery

open: Sunday through Friday 10 to 17pm
Saturday13 to 17
Wednesday 10 to 20 pm
Closed on Monday

Book: Berne Historical Museum
Iconoclasm - Madness or the Will of God?
No 15 / Feb.2001/ 6

Exhibition book: Berne Historical Museum and
Musée de l'oeuvre Notre-Dame, Strassburg
Iconoclasm - Madness or the Will of God? (Bildersturm - Wahnsinn oder Gottes Wille)

Editors: Cécile Dupeux, Peter Jezler, Jean Wirth
in cooperation with Gabriele Keck, Christian von Burg, Susanne Marti
Berne, 2000, NZZ Verlag, illustrated in colour, 453 pages inclusive glossary, bibliography

Text in german, ISBN: 38 582 3853 8

The exhibition, entitled: Iconoclasm - Madness or the Will of God?
In german: Bildersturm - Wahnsinn oder Gottes Wille
Berne Historical Museum 2nd November 2000 to 16th April 2001

Exhibitions: Koeln, Istanbul
Schnütgen Museum
Topkapi Museum Istanbul
No 15 / Feb.2001/ 7

Schnütgen Museum
Köln Germany

Tel: 0221.22 12 23 10, fax: 0221.22 12 84 89
e-mail: schnuetgen@netcologne.de
internet: www.museenkoeln.de

opening hours:
tues-fri: 10 to 17h
sat. and sun: 11 to 17h
every first wed. of the month until 20 h.

Book: Le coton et la mode
Musée Galliera, musée de la mode de la Ville de Paris
No 15 / Feb.2001/ 8

Le coton et la mode, 1000 ans d'aventure
editor: Musée Galliera, musée de la mode de la Ville de Paris

authors: Pascale Gorguet Ballesteros, Geneviève Roche-Bernard, Monique Drosson, Vibeke Kingma, Anne Wanner-JeanRichard, Geoffrey Timmins, Serge Chassagne, Marie-Pierre Deguillaume, Jacqueline Jacqué, Morgane Prigent.

Paris, 2000
text in french, 206 p., many coloured and black and white photos.
ISBN 2-87900-490-X

Booklet: Fast verschlossen
Domschatzkammer Aachen, Aachen 2000
No 15 / Feb.2001/ 9

Fast verschlossen
Die Stiftungen der Isabella Clara Eugenia
Domschatzkammer Aachen, Aachen 2000

By Monica Vroon, Regina Urbanek
Text in german, 44 p. , 14 col., 6 bw. pictures, no ISBN

Chalice veils
Schatzkammer of Aachen
No 15 / Feb. 2001/ 10

Monica Vroon informs
about Chalice veils of Schatzkammer Aachen

Chalice veils of Aachen:

The Schatzkammer is not a museum. Its collection is the remains of textiles that were, and sometimes are still, actively used in everyday church-life.

177 chalice veils. 50 are partly embroidered and 14 embroidered all over.
Most of them probably german, 23 made of french silk, 1 is english

Germany: Schatzkammer, Aachen
one chalice veil (T0114) with date, it was made in 1712

In the collection of the Schatzkammer there are some more embroidered and dated or datable items:
Monica sent photos with a hypothesis of where one or the other were made.

- The Altarfrontal of Mechernich (T03002) is interesting in that it is surly made in the same workshop as the altarfrontals that Karen Stolleis wrote about and that was mentioned in Newsletter no. 10, page 9. It is dated 1621.

- Blumenpracht Ornat, Dom Aachen, St. Folian Aachen (T00518-19), Chalice veil 1725, Ursulines?, Germany?

- Kölner Kasel (T01140), Dom Aachen, 1598

- Bursa (T02510), Dom Aachen, 1723

Kölner Kasel (T01140), Dom Aachen, 1598

The Altarfrontal of Mechernich (T03002)

Embroidery on Buratto
Museum collections. Project of Karen Finch
No 15 / Feb. 2001/ 11/12

Rest of literature notices (compare Newsletter 14))

- Spitzen, Maritheres Gräfin Preysing, Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe. Hamburg 1987. (Catalogue) Germany.
Page 8, Illustration No 2. Whitework border consisting of two buratto woven bands joined together.
46,5 x 8 cms altogether, which makes each band 4 cms wide. Ilalian, late 16 century.
Caption: Teil eines Wickelbandes (?). Buratto mit erhöhter Stickerei, genähte kleine Randzacken mit Schlingstichbogen. Inventory No 1959.47. Selvedges visible on both bands.

References:
1 Johanne Arnbech-Jensen and Margrethe Drejier
Sting og monstre for Skole og Hjem (57-58)
(Stitches and Patterns for Schools and Homes)
Gyldendal, Nordisk Forlag, Copenhagen, 1936
2 Information A.Wanner
3 The original is in the Bibliotheca Communale, Brescia.
Facsimile copies were published by the Istituto d'Arte Grafiche, 1901 Bergamo
(British Library, Rare Boks 7757,bb 36
The Decorative Arts Museum, Copenhagen.
4 Translation by Jane Bridgeman, 1999
5 John Becker. Pattern and Loom (42-57)
Rhodos, Copenhagen, 1987
ISBN 87.7245.151.3 and ISBN 87.7245.204.8
6 Matilda Wahe. Pitsia Kangaspuissa
Werner Soderstrom. Osakeyhtio. Porvoc, Helsinki, 1954
7 Dr Floris Mulder. Haarlem ging op wollen Zolm.
Historich Museum. Zuid-Konnemerland (103-109), Harlem 1995
ISBN 90.6455.208.8
8 Yitka Stankova. A Chapter in the History of Woven Lace.
Textile History, 16, 1985, (1 41-150)
9 Dr Agnes Geijer. A History of Textile Art (57, plate 8)
Pasold Research Fund, London, 1979. ISBN 0.85667.055.3
10 Charlotte Paludan in Fru Kirstens Born (Lady Kirsten's Children) (71-73)
the National Museum, Copenhagen 1988. ISBN 87.7468.247.4
11 Information from Tove Mathiassen, The old Town, Aarhus
Inventory number of Sampler: 540:75
12 Bridget Harper. TCC Final Year Report, 1976
Shawl donated by Genitha Halsey
13 Burnham and Burnham. Keep Me Warm One Night (74-5)
Royal Ontario Museum , Toronto, 1972. ISBN 0.8020.1896.3

Buratto weave fabrics with embroidery

Collection, owner	Inv.Nr.	origin	date	Size, cms	selv.	fibre	thread count	embroid. stitches	yarn	colour
Berington, Little Malvern Court		Italy	16 c	84 x 33	2	flax	11 pairs -11	Double running	silk	red
V&A, Museum, London	T56. 1919 T66. 1929	Italy Italy	16 c 1600	101,5x14,5 105,7x29,2	2 2	flax flax	8 pairs 8 8 pairs 8.1	satin,dbl running,gol satin,dbl running	silk silk	multi multi
Embroiderer's Guild	EG. 5380 EG. 3076	Italy Italy	1600 1600	24 x 6,5 47 x 3	1	flax flax	- -	back stitch satin,cross,dbl.runni	silk silk	red multi
Arts & Crafts Mus Hamburg	Inv. 1959.49	Italy	16 c	46,5 x 8	4	flax	10 pairs -10	pl braid, lace W stem	flax	white
Metropol.Mus. New York	- -	Italy Italy	16 c 17 c	- -	2? 2	flax flax	- -	darning cloth	flax flax	white white
Abegg Stiftung Berne	- -	Italy Italy	16 c 16 c	- -	2 2	flax flax		darning darning	flax flax	white white
Mus of Fine Art Boston	-	Germany	17 c	-	2	flax	-	cross stitch	silk	red
Textile Museum St.Gallen	Inv.2717 Inv.2713 Inv.27121 Inv.2715	Italy Italy Italy Italy	16c 16c 1600 1600	31,5 x 7,5 89 x 7 13 x 10 85 x 24,5	2? 2? 2? 2?	? ? ? flax	- 5 pairs ? - ?	dbl running cross stitch dbl runn.,satin,gold dbl runn., stem	silk silk silk silk	red multi red red
Youlie Spantidakis Athens	Buratto 1 Buratto 2 Buratto 3 Buratto 4a Buratto 4b Buratto 4c Buratto 5 Buratto 6 Buratto 7 Buratto 8 Buratto 9 Buratto 10	Italy? Italy - Italy Italy Italy Greec Italy ?Gree ?Gree ?Italy ?Italy	17 c 17 c 17 c 17 c 17 c 17 c 17 c 16 c? 16 c 17 c 17 c 17 c	165 x 47 242 x 19 107 x 14 81 x 14 83 x 14 104 x 13 58 x 15 200 x 27 240 x 18 42 x 21 200 x 47 47 x 10	2 2 2 - - - 1 2 2 - 2 2	flax silk flax flax flax flax silk flax flax flax flax flax	4,5 pairs-5 6 pairs-9 5 pairs-4,5 5 pairs-6,7 5 pairs-6,7 5 pairs-6,7 7 pairs -7 3 pairs -4 4,5pairs -7 4 pairs-4,5 4,5pairs-4,5 3 pairs -4	darning darning darning darning darning darning satin-dbl running cloth stitch darning darning darning darning, dbl running	flax flax flax flax flax flax silk flax flax flax flax flax	white white white white white white yelow, pink, white white white white white white
Decorative Arts Mus. Prague	3737	Italy	17 c		2	flax		darning	flax	white
Auctions Christies, 4.11.2000	Lot 138	Italy	16 c	6 pieces, each 93 x 19	12	Silk blue	various	various	silk	multi

Victoria and Albert Museum London
Advice from Linda Woolley

T 56.1919 Border	16th century Length 101.5cms Width 14.5cms	italian Warp 8 paired warps per cm Weft 8 single wefts per cm
Buratto	Linen	Coloured silk and silver gilt Embroidery
T 66.1929 Border	about 1600 Length 105.7cms Width 29.2 cms	Italian Warp 8 paired warps per cm Weft 8.1 single wefts per cm
Buratto	Linen	Silk embroidery

Inventory cards
Textilmuseum St Gallen,Switzerland
In correspondence with the curator, Dr Anne Wanner-JeanRichard

Object No 2715, 16/17 century		Italian ?
Borders (3) Buratto weave	85 x 24.5 cms overall Linen	3-4 singles per mm red silk embroidery
Object No 2713, 16 century		Italian
Border Buratto weave	89 x 7cm Cotton	1 single per mm coloured silk embroidery
Object No 2717, 16 century		Italian
Border Buratto weave	31.5 x 7.5 cms cotton	no thread count red silk embroidery
Object No 27121, 16/17 century		Italian
Border Buratto weave	13 x 10 cms Cotton	No thread count Gold thread and red silk embroidery

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Last revised February 11, 2001