Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

Nr 30
Oct 2007

Rheinfelden, October 19, 2007

Dear members,
This Newsletter Nr 30 is sent as an attachment to e-mail for members. You will find it on the homepage as well, with links to the special entries.
Many thanks once more for sending to me several contributions. I am appreciating all your further information very much.
I am also very glad if you inform me about any incorrectness or changements in your address.

With all good wishes
yours Anne Wanner

I N F O R M A T I O N (see also section information)

  • The CIETA Website  has been active since December 2006. It offers a general presentation of CIETA and practical information on its activities, publications and technical courses.
  • The Buckinghamshire County Museum publishes a monthly e-newsletter which gives details of new exhibitions and events. If you would like to receive thei e-newsletter please send your name, postal address and e-mail address to
  • In Canada there is since 2005 an Online Newspaper: „Fibre Quarterly“. Editor is the performer, painter and textile designer Joe Lewis. It appears 3 times per year. There is a public part and a part for subscribers:


  • The Knitting and Stitching Show - - : NEC Birmingham, 13 until 16 September 2007, Alexandra Palace London, 11 until 14 October 2007, International Halls Harrogate, 22 until 25 November 2007


M E E T I N G S (see also section meetings)

Forthcoming Meetings:

  see also: Report of Symposium in Deerfield:

Symposium: In Search of Origins. Wool and Culture, 1500-1900
Thursday, September 13 - Sunday, September 16, 2007
Historic Deerfield,
  Pre-symposium workshop Day 1 and Day 2:
Men’s 18
th century Tailoring Workshop: Mark Hutter and Henry Cooke, IV.

Thursday: Symposium Registration opens and

Keynote Lecture: Spitting on the Floorcloth. Embossed and Printed Wool, 1684-1750, Phillip Sykas, Ph.D., University of Manchester England

Friday: Registration continues and Special Morning Workshops:
Crewel Embroidery:
Betsy Leiper – Conservation and Wool: Eva Burnham –
500 Years of Knitting: Edward Maeder – Wool Bedcovers: Lynne Bassett –
Natural Dyeing:
Michele Wipplinger

- Invisible Wool: The Art of Engineering Fashion  1540-1800: Thessy Schoenholzer-Nichols, Firenze,Italy
- Stories from the Old Testament: Wool Embroideries from German Speaking Switzerland, c. 1600: Anne Wanner-JeanRichard, Ph.D, Switzerland
- Felt, a Mongolian Way of Life: Past, Present and Future:
Michael Gervers, Ph.D, Toronto, Canada
- Dying to Know: Wool and the Wonderful World of Color:
Michele Wipplinger, Seattle Washington, USA

- Piping Shepherds, Fishing Ladies and What about That Parrot? Embroidered Wool Pictures from Colonial New England 1725-1775:
Pamela Parmal, Boston, USA
- Some Finer Points of Crewel Embroidery:
Kathy Staples, Greenville, South Carolina, USA
- Revivals: The Royal School of Needlework, Hampton Court Palace, England 1872-1900:
Lynn Hulse, The Royal School of Nedlework, England
- Not Independent At All: Wool Imports into the New England Colonies 1697-1780:
Edward Maeder, Historic Deerfield, Massaschusetts, USA
- Broadcloth and Bearskin, Cotton and Calimanco: Wool Cloths of the 17
th and 18th Century British Clothing: Mark Hutter, Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, USA
- Calamanco: The Textile of Choice: Linda Eaton, Winterthur, Delaware, USA
- Cloth for the President: American Manufactured Wool for George Washington’s 1
st Inaugural Suit: Henry Cooke IV, Randolph, Massachusetts USA

- Remembering Deb Pulliam, who died on May 23, 2007
- Covered With the Best Stuff: 18th Century Upholstery: Natalie Larson, Williamsburg, Virginia, USA
- Uses of Wool in the Construction of Children’s 18
th Century Clothing: Lynn Edgar, Glenmont, New York, USA
- Handmade Rugs and Carpets in New England:
Jane Nylander, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, USA

E X H I B I T I O N S: (see also section exhibition)

forthcoming exhibitions:

  • Treasures of the Ashmolean Museum, Ashmolean Museum, The University of Oxford, Beaumont Street/St. Giles, (UK) Oxford OX1 2PH - 24 May until 31 December 2008
  • Art of the Stitch, Embroiderers Guild, Apt. 41 Hampton Court Palace, Surrey KT8 9AU; venue: Waterhall Gallery of Modern Art, Birmingham, 15 March until 15 June 2008
  • Quilt Art 20, Textilmuseum May Berk, Kurpfälzisches Museum der Stadt Heidelberg, Heidelberg-Ziegelhausen, 24 February until 1 June 2008
  • Tuch + Technik, Neumuenster, Germany, opening 27 October 2007
  • European Tuta Award - a challenge for the future, Museo del Tessuto, via Santa Chiara 24, I-59100 Prato (FI), Italy, 15 December until 14 April 2008
  • Quilt Art 20, Textilmuseum May Berk, Kurpfälzisches Museum der Stadt Heidelberg, Heidelberg-Ziegelhausen, 24 February until 1 June 2008
  • Underwear, 19th and 20th c., Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs de Lyon, 30-34, Rue de la Charité, F-69002-Lyon, 29 October until 16 December 2007
  • Mariluisa Sponga, “OLTRE LE PAROLE. IL PENSIERO.” International Quilt Festival Houston, Texas, 27 ottobre a 4 novembre 2007, International Quilt Festival Chicago in Rosemond, Illinois, 11-13 aprile 2008, International Quilt Festival Long Beach, California 25-27 luglio 2008


  • Filzkunst, Marlise Steiger, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Switzerland, 17 October until 30 December
  • "paintings - dresses": Mascha Mioni, Cuort Ligia Grischa, Museum Sursilvan, CH-7166 Trun/Graubünden, Switzerland, http// 15 September until 31 October 2007
  • Schaufenster im Museum - Museum im Schaufenster, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Switzerland, 22 August until 31 December 2007
  • Dragons of Silk, Flowers of Gold, Textile Treasures of the Chinese Liao-Dynasty (907-1125), Abegg Stiftung, Riggisberg, Switzerland, 29 April until 11 November 2007
  • "Swiss Embroideries, Broderies Suisses, St.Galler Stickereien", newly arranged permanent exhibition, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Switzerland, from 13 April 2007


  • Mariluisa Sponga, FOGLIE NEL FOGLIO” 2007, naugurazione Alexandra Palace, Londra: 11-14  ottobre 2007

France, Belgique:

  • Silk fabrics from Lyon, 1800-1914, Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs de Lyon, 30-34, Rue de la Charité, F-69002-Lyon, 26 April until 31 December 2007
  • Relief Fabrics, Quilts, boutis and other padded clothes, Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes, 14 Rue Jean Jacques Henner, F-68072 Mulhouse, 4 May until 6 January 2008,

Germany, Austria:

  • Land des Lächelns, Chinese dresses and textiles, German Textilmuseum Krefeld, Krefeld, Germany, 16 September until 13 January 2008

Italy, Spain, Portugal, Poland:

  • Filare il tempo - 2007 miniartextil Como, Arte & Arte - Onlus, Associazione Culturale, via Pannilani 23, I-22100 Como, Italy, 29 September until 4 November 2007

B O O K R E V I E W S: (see also section book reviews)

  • Merletti e Ricami italiani - Italian Laces and Embroideries, edited by Christina Notore, Essays by Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols, Bianca Rosa Bellomo, Bologna April 2007, text in Italian and in English. ISBN 9788889262139.
  • Sticken und Weben im Bergkloster, by Ursula Karbacher, p. 243 - 271, in: Das Benediktinerinnen Kloster Maria-Rickenbach in Geschichte und Gegenwart, by Achermann Hansjakob/Haller-Dirr Marita (Red.); Stans, 2007. 312 pages, 200 coloured photos, 310 x 235 mm. Verlag Historischer Verein Nidwalden, Stans. ISBN 978-3-906377-10-0 - at sFr. 60.00, in german language.
  • Uzbeck Embroidery in the Nomadic Tradition, The Jack A. and Aviva Robinson collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. By Kate Fritz Gibbon and Andrew Hale, 2007 Minneapolis Institute of Arts.
    Printed in Singapore, ISBN: 1-58886-09-9 - can be ordered at $ 59.95.
    Central Asia's famous Silk Road is the source of the dynamic, highly abstracted embroideries of the Uzbek peoples. In this hardcover book, detailed color illustrations of the nearly 100 works in the Jack A. and Aviva Robinson Collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, as well as numerous historic and contemporary photographs, provide unparalleled access to the styles and techniques for which the embroideries of the Lakai and Kungrat nomads and the refined textiles of the city of Sharisabs are renowned. History, anthropology, and mythic tales blend with women's textile magic in this fascinating publication illuminating a brilliant artistic tradition.
  • Nastri / Rubans / Bindel
    Scambi di seta attraverso le Alpi, a cura di Almerino De Angelis, Guy Scherrer
    2006 Silvana Editorale Spa, Cinisello Balsamo, Milano. In Italian language.
    Saggi di Nadine Besse, Piero Boschero, Giuseppe Chicco, Mario Cordero, Flavio Crippa, Almerino De Angelis, GianNicolas Faure, Pietro Ponzo, Guy Scherrer
    ISBN 88-366-0796-9 - - at Euro 26.00.
    Durante i secoli XVIII e XIX, pregiati fili di seta uscivano dalle “fabbriche magnifiche” piemontesi per prendere soprattutto la strada di Francia e in particolare della regione lionese, dove venivano trasformati in tessuti che segnavano la moda del tempo. Un episodio poco noto riguarda i rubans, vale a dire i nastri in seta nella cui produzione si erano specializzate le fabbriche della città di Saint-Etienne, a sud di Lione. Tali nastri non erano destinati soltanto agli abiti dell’aristocrazia o dell’alta borghesia: arrivando in Piemonte, i bindel, come si chiamavano nelle parlate locali, venivano impiegati nella confezione di abiti e costumi nelle valli alpine, nonché per particolari usi devozionali. Partendo da una ricognizione sui caratteri della produzione dei nastri/rubans/bindel a Saint-Etienne, la mostra e il relativo catalogo documentano l’uso dei nastri nelle manifestazioni della cultura popolare della montagna cuneese. Un argomento che, ampiamente illustrato nel volume, interessa vari settori, spaziando
    dall’ambito tecnico, a quello storico-economico, dalla sfera artistica a quella antropologica.
  • Les enrubannées. Haute Couture: Hommage au ruban, St. Etienne 2006, by Nadine Besse et autres.
    ISBN 2-.755-0188-9 -
  • Mezzari and the Cotton Route, I mezzari e la via del cotone, by Marzia Cataldi Gallo.
    2007 San Giorgio Editrice, Genova. 80 pages, text in italian and english, 90 photos in colour and black and white. 16,5 x 23,3; - at Euro 14.00.
    I mezzari e la via del cotone, catalogo della mostra organizzata dal Ministero per gli Affari Esteri in collaborazione con quello per i Beni e le Attività Culturali, ripercorre il percorso seguito nei secoli passati dal cotone e dai manufatti tessuti con quello, che, per la sua diffusione sui mercati internazionali, era definito “oro bianco”.
    La pubblicazione, con testo a fronte inglese/italiano, documenta l’enorme ricchezza di questo patrimonio storico-artistico e stimola riflessioni e approfondimenti sulla materia.

  • Tessuti Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola, by Marzia Cataldi Gallo
    1999 Sagep,Genova, ISBN 88-7058-758-4
    - in Italian.
  • Clothing culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD, by Frances Pritchard, 2004, Abeggstiftung CH 3132 Riggisberg,
  • Magazin  "TEXT"  For the Study of Textile Art. Design & History, volume 35, 2007-8
    p. 58 book reviews – Joanna Hashagen & Santina Levey.
  • Women at work in Preindustrial France, by Dayl M. Hafter, May 2007, 328 pp, 12 illustrations, £ 36.50  $ 53.00
    The subject of women as skilled workers in the eighteenth century is central to our understanding of the history of work and technology in the preindustrial age. While recent scholarship has dispelled the notion that women did not enter the workforce until the Industrial Revolution, debate continues as to the extent to which women actually participated in skilled work in the preceding decades.
    This book draws upon substantial archival research in Rouen, Lyon, and Paris to show that while the vast majority of working women in eighteenth-century France labored at unskilled, low-paying jobs, it was not at all unusual for women to be actively engaged in economic activities as workers, managers, and merchants. Some even developed vertically integrated wholesale and retail businesses, while others became indispensable to manufacturers through their technical skill.
    In fact, Hafter documents how certain women guild masters were able to exploit the legal system to achieve considerable economic independence, power, wealth, and legal parity with male masters. She also shows how gender politics complicated the day-to-day experience of these working women.
    Author Biography:
    Daryl M. Hafter is Professor Emerita of History at Eastern Michigan University. She is the editor of European Women and Preindustrial Craft (1995).
  • L'arte del ricamo nel territorio fiorentino dal cinquecento al XX secolo. Parati e arredi liturgici di Bagno a Ripoli e Signa; by Laura Casprini Gentile and Maria Emirena Tozzi Bellini; in: Quaderni di testi e studi 6, collana diretta da Roberto Lunardi; Edizione Polistampa, 2007.
    ISBN 978-88-596-09218-7, Euro 10.

  • see exhibition: Francesca Galloway, London, Catalogue by Sue Kerry, 245 x 310 mm, 196 pages, 172 colour ill., Volume II £ 35 + p&p.
    To order the catalogue please contact:

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