Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

Nr 36
November 2009

Rheinfelden, November 15, 2009

Dear members,

This Newsletter Nr 36 is sent to you as usual as a word attachment to e-mail.
The same Newsletter can also be viewed on the homepage, with links to the special entries. And I am again sending a paper version to members without an e-mail address.

Here you will find some summaries of embroidery papers held at the CIETA conference in Brussels this fall.
The first booklet on Cross Stitch may still be acquired, thanks again to all those who bought one in Brussels

Thanks again for sending to me several contributions. I am appreciating all your further information very much.


With all good wishes
yours Anne Wanner

I N F O R M A T I O N (see also section information)

  • The CIETA Website  has been active since December 2006. It offers a general presentation of CIETA and practical information on its activities, publications and technical courses.
  • The Costume Committee of ICOM has been responsible for the compiling of the Vocabulary of basic terms for the cataloguing of costume in english, French and German:
  • New Chair of Textile History, starting autumn 2009:
    The new Professor for this chair of Textile History is elected. Prof.Dr. Birgitt Borkopp-Restle is now going to start the new study program this September 2009. Address: Universität Bern, Institut für Kunstgeschichte, Hodlerstr. 8, CH-3011 Bern
  • New group of "ethnographic textiles/extra-european Textiles" of the CIETA
    In charge of the group: Christine Athenor, in charge of the African, oceanian and near east collections of the Musée des Confluences, Lyon, France - e-mail:


  • Le projet du Château de Gevrey-Chambertin
    les derniers samedi et dimanche
    du mois d’Aout 2010 de 10h à 19h
    Les activités seront installées dans la cour intérieure du Château et composées d’un ensemble de stands, d’échoppes et d’ateliers.


  • Vortragsreihe: Textilien im Sport, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Switzerland:
    Im Rahmen der Ausstellung - sicherer - schöner - schneller - organisiert das Textilmuseum St.Gallen eine einmalige Vortragsreihe zum Thema Sporttextilien und Genderfragen. Historikerinnen und Experten aus der Sport-, Bekleidungs- und Geschlechterforschung referieren mit unterschiedlichen Schwerpunkten.
    - Dienstag
    17.11.09 – 18.30 bis ca. 19.30 Uhr, Susanne Noller
    führt durch die Ausstellung «sicherer – schöner – schneller». Die Bekleidungstechnikerin erklärt anhand von Ausstellungsexponaten die besonderen Anforderungen an die Schnitttechnik im Bereich der Sporttextilien.
  • Vom 6. November bis 21. November 2009, ART der Kunstevent im Textilmuseum St. Gallen, Schweiz. Führungen durch die Ausstellung mit dem Kabarett jonudennhalt, Vorverkauf ab 26.10.09 im Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Schweiz.
  • Sonntag, 22. November 2009, 11 Uhr, Märchenstoff mit Lisbeth Scheidegger-Lieb, Märchenerzählerin, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, Vadianstrasse 2, 9000 St.Gallen, Schweiz.

S U M M A R I E S of Embroidery Papers at the Cieta Conference (see also Brussels)

Zvezdana Dode, Russia
Looted Christian Embroidery in the costume of a nomad (13th - 14th centuries AD).

During the Mongol Period, silk textiles were not only traded, but were also thought of highly by the nomads as a trophy. In one of the burials excavated in Kalmykia (which in the 13th - 14th centuries AD was part of the realm of the Golden Horde), an interesting artifact has been found in the grave of a man. Several fragments of embroidered silk textile had been preserved on the legs. The shape of the trousers has parallels in pictorial sources and various archaeological finds from the former Mongol Empire. The embroidered silk had originally been a curtain for a Christian icon showing "The Ascension of Christ". The embroidery had been made in Byzantium or Ancient Rus. It may be assumed that the curtain was looted by a nomad from one of the Christian churches in Dagestan, on the western shore of the Caspian Sea. That region had an especially strong cult of the apostle, Bartholomew, whose name, embroidered in Cyrillic, was found preserved on the silk found in Kalmykia.

Evelin Wetter, Switzerland
Evidence of a Trade in Luxury Textiles: Some Thoughts concerning Venetian Embroideries and a special group of velvets in historical Hungary.

In comparison with Northern European treasuries of medieval luxury textiles (Gdansk, Stralsund, Brandenburg, Halberstadt, etc...) their transmission in historical Hungary presents some distinct features: in the treasuries of Lutheran churches in Romania today, as well as in Hungarian Catholic cathedrals, a strong Venetian connection is apparent. On the one hand, this seems to have been caused by trade contacts; on the other hand, representations of specific patterns in contemporary altar pieces reflect a certain taste and demand. While the Venetian-produced embroidery is easily distinguished, the group of velvets mentioned requires discussion within a broader context.

Masako Yoshida. Japan
European design textiles produced in China and exported to Japan in the late 16th through the early 17th centuries
The actual presentation differed slightly from the following abstract.
Several examples of European design textiles produced in China and exported to Japan in fne late 16th through the early 17th centuries will be discussed. These objects, preserved in Japanese collections, were originally produced for Europeans by the Chinese and were then traded to Japan by European missionaries and merchants as political gifts. The Japanese altered some of them to create traditional costumes.
One example is a bedcover with a motif of an auspicious bird that was transformed from "pelican in her piety" by Chinese craftsmen. Eventually it was traded to Japan where it was altered once again to make a jacket for the traditional Kyogen performance.

Maria Joao Pacheco Ferreira, Portugal
Chinese Trade Textiles for the Portuguese Market: Their presence in religious contexts in the 16th and 17th centuries.
With the establishment of Portuguese settlements in China, textiles became an important trade commodity between Macau, India and Portugal. According to contemporary documents, large quantities of raw materials, such as silk yams, as well as woven cloths, finished garments and furnishings were part of this commerce, especially those intended for religious contexts. Indeed, we observe that typical Chinese textiles, such as mandarin squares, and other objects were being produced according to Portuguese instructions and used as liturgical or secular adornments in Catholic ceremonies.
This talk aims to present and discuss some examples of these celebratory events.

Maria-Anne Privat-Savigny, France
The Religious Worship Administration Office and the Financing of Pontifical under the Regime of the Concordat of 1801.

In 1992, to coincide with the exhibition Paramentica, Elisabeth Hardouin-Fugier published a preliminary study of orders for pontifical financed by the Religious Worship Administration Office {Administration des Cubes) under the Concordat regime of 1801.
This lecture aims to develop this initial analysis by tackling the following questions:
1) The Religious Worship Administration Office pursued a specific policy in terms of the financing of pontifical. What amounts were involved and how were they spread temporally and geographically? Can textile pontifical be considered a political tool at the service of a more global religious policy?
2) Detailed examination and analysis of the estimates submitted for approval to the Religious Worship Administration Office have made it possible to reveal a specific type of pontifical endorsed by the Concordat government. What was it like in terms of quality and style? Did the Office follow a committed policy in favour of the adoption of the Neo-Gothic style?
3) Finally, through this financing, the Religious Worship Administration Office contributed to the economic development of an important French industrial sector in the 19th century. What guidelines were adopted?
During the period of the Concordat of 1801, the Religious Worship Administration Office pursued averitable policy of ordering pontifical, the latter becoming a political and aesthetic tool and a means of collaboration with the prelates.

Ursula Karbacher, Switzerland
The first balance sheets from 1760 to 1807 of a St. Gallen company celebrating its 250th anniversary

The St. Gallen textile trade has a long tradition. The manufacture and trading of linen has brought the city prosperity since the 15th century. This year, a manufacturer of St. Gallen embroidery and a market leader is celebrating its 250th anniversary. Since its establishment in 1759, the company has dealt in the world-famous St. Gallen cloths, multicoloured cotton fabrics and, later, embroideries. The first balance sheets from 1760 to 1807 will be placed in the context of the textile history of St.Gallen and will be compared to corresponding objects from the same period.

Rosa Martin i Ros, Montserrat Bargallo i Sanchez. Antoni Bargallo i Pi, Spain
Antependium of Saint Louis of Toulouse (Saint Louis d'Anjou)

Formerly in the possession of the Cathedral ofTarragona, it is has been held at the Museu Diocesa of the archdiocese of Tarragona since 1918. It is dedicated to Saint Louis of Toulouse (1274-1298),
a Franciscan friar and Bishop of Toulouse. He was the eldest surviving son of the King of Naples, Charles II of Anjou. The antependium is divided into four embroidered panels which depict episodes in the life of the saint:
- The Renunciation of the crown of Naples,
- The Ceremony of Louis taking holy orders,
- King Charles visiting his son at the monastery and
- The Preaching of Louis.
The four panels are separated by panels embroidered with plant motifs.

The altar frontal is embroidered with polychrome silks and gold and silver threads on a plain weave ground. The name of the workshop where it was embroidered is not known. It dates from the middle of the 15th century, perhaps from between 1440 and 1450. It is thought that the author of the cartoon for the embroidery was a painter from the circle of Catalan Gothic painters, Jaume Huguet (c. 1415-1492).
The altar frontal was conserved during the winter and spring of 2009. During this conservation treatment, the Museu Diocesa of Tarragona proposed that the authors should study the altar frontal.
This involved the technical examination of the fabric, threads and embroidery as well as historical, stylistic and iconographic analysis. This study is the subject of this paper.

Anne Wanner-JeanRichard, Switzerland
Medieval Embroidery Stitches and the Vocabulary Project.
In my 2007 paper, a possible structure for embroidery stitches was presented. In this paper, I would like to show a way of analysing medieval embroidery stitches with the help of the vocabulary.
Medieval gold embroidery: couching, underside couching and shaded gold embroidery, as used in opus Anglicanism of the 12th and 13th centuries. Self couching in wool embroidery, as applied in tapestries and altar cloths of the 14th century from Northern Germany. Broad chain stitch, Maltese Cross stitches as found in linen altar cloths of the 12th and 13th centuries.

M E E T I N G S (see also section meetings)

  • 1 October until 30 November 2009 7th international Kaunas biennial TEXTILE 09
    M. K. Ciurlionis National Museum of Art – M. Žilinskas Art Gallery and Kaunas Picture Gallery
     'Kaunas Biennial is best known for presenting Lithuania’s international festival of contemporary art in textiles. TEXTILE 09 involves artists working with others to create opportunities for direct experience and live examination of art production. The main part of the biennial consists of 30 projects’ residency programme LIVE EXAMINATION which will be realised by 60 artists from 20 countries.' Programme and information:
    For further information, please contact:
    Jurga Knyviene, Communication Co-ordinator - +37061871731
  • upcoming meetings of ICOM Costume Committee:
    - 2010: ICOM Triennial, Shanghai, China,
    November 7-13 2010,
  • 26 November 2009 to 28 February 2010 Biennial of fiber art, Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs, 30-34, Rue de la Charité, F-69002 Lyon, France
  • 6 to 11 February 2010: 10th Quilt Nihon Exhibition, 2009, in the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. Participation in 3 categories: A. Traditional, B. Contemporary, C. Junior & Senior. Application form see:
    e-mail: - Application for A and B: 1 to 31 July 2009, for students: 1 to 30 October 2009
  • April 9-11, 2010 The Hellenic Costume Society and the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation invite you to the International Costume Conference entitled “ENDYESTHAI (To Dress): Historical, sociological and methodological approaches” .
    The conference is organised concurrently to the exhibition ENDYESTHAI (To Dress): Towards a Costume Culture Museum” (
    March 4-April 30, 2010, Benaki Museum – Pireos Street Annexe). Please contact: Dr. Marlen Mouliou ( - she is out of office between 25th July and 9th August 09 - for immediate answers to questions related to the 1st conference circular, you can reach Ms Xenia Politou at
  • 16 April to 22 August 2010: Fiberarts Guild of Pittsburgh, 2010 biennial exhibition. Participation fee US$ 35.- e-mail: - - Submission deadline 21 August 2009
  • The dates of the Costume Colloquium II: Dress for Dance are confirmed for November 4-7, 2010. Following the great success of the first Costume Colloquium (held in Florence 6-9 November 2008 and attended by over 315 participants from 26 countries with 39 presentations on 8 themes), there will be a second symposium in November 2010 on the subject of Dress for Dance. For more information please CLICK HERE.

E X H I B I T I O N S: (see also section exhibition)

forthcoming exhibitions:

  • 19 November to 22 November 2009 The Knitting & Stitching Show, Harrogate International Centre, Box Office, King's Road, Harrogate HG1 5LA Great Britain
  • 20 November 2009 to 21 February 2010, "Le tissu dans tous ses sens", 2nd biennial of textiles, Lyon, France
  • 21 November to 28 February 2010, Quelques paillettes, un peu de soie ... Coiffes d'Alsace du XVIIIe et du début du XIX siècle, Musée d'Unterlinden, 1, rue d'Unterlinden, F-68000 Colmar, France
  • April 16, 2010 - August 22, 2010, Fiberart International 2010,
    This juried exhibition of contemporary works of fiber art is recognized among fiber artists around the world as a benchmark exhibition that documents trends and innovations in the field. The goal of the exhibition is to include innovative work rooted in traditional fiber materials, structure, processes and history, as well as art that explores unexpected relationships between fiber and other creative disciplines. Submission deadline August 21, 2009 -
  • April through September 2011 Green: a Color and a Cause, The Textile Museum, 2320 S Street NW, Washington, DC 20008, USA, - submission deadline: 29 January 2010

current Exhibitions:

  • Abegg-Stiftung: The exhibition rooms of the Abegg-Stiftung are being renovated and increased in size. Due to construction work the Abegg Museum and Villa will remain closed until spring 2011. e-mail: -
  • 8 April to December 2009 - Textile Museum St.Gallen Switzerland, sicherer schöner schneller, Textiles in Sport
  • 28 August to 16 May 2010 Textile Art - West Africa, Museum der Kulturen, Augustinergasse 2, CH-4051 Basel, Switzerland
    - accompanying
    publication by Bernhard Gardi: Woven Beauty - the Art of West African Textiles, 2009, 200 pages, Euro 28.-. - Support Programme, details see at:
  • 30 August 2009 to 25 July 2010 Styling in the Baroque Period - the staging of heaven, Castle Zug, Kirchenstrasse 11, 6300 Zug, Switzerland,
  • 1 November to 1 April 2010 Kleid im Kontext, tuchinform, Obere Kirchgasse 8, CH-8400 Winterthur, Switzerland

current Exhibitions:
different countries:

France, Belgium:

  • 5 Juin to 14 December 2009 Féerie Indiennes: des Rivages de L'Inde au Royaume de France, Musée de la Compagnie des Indes, Citadelle de Port-Louis, F-56290 Port Louis, France
  • 18 Juin to 24 January 2010 Madeleine Vionnet, Couturière (1876-1975), Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Librairie, Rue de Rivoli 107, F-75001 Paris, France
  • 7 May to 21 November 2009 De fleurs en aiguille, L'art de la broderie chez les visitandines; Hôtel Demoret, 83 rue d'Allier, Moulins (03) France, organized by: Musée de la Visitation, 4, place de l'Ancien Palais, 03000 MOULINS - France

Germany, Saarland, Austria:


  • 10 October to 17 January 2010 Maharaja: The Splendour of India's Royal Courts, Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, South Kensington (UK) London SW7 2RL
  • 15 August 2009 to summer 2010. The Manchester Indian: Thomas Wardle and India, Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester, Great Britain -
  • 5 September to 23 December 2009 Seeing Red: The Influence of Turkey Red Dye on Quiltmaking. Quilt Museum and Gallery, St Anthony's Hall, Peasholme Green, York YO1 7PW
  • until summer 2010 The Manchester Indian: Thomas Wardle and India, Whitworth Art Gallery, University of Manchester, Oxford Road, (UK) Manchester M15 6ER

Netherlands, Belgium:

  • 20 June to 31 January 2010 Inaugural exhibition At the Russian Court presents more than 1,800 treasures from St Petersburg. The Hermitage Amsterdam is located on Amstel 51, Amsterdam, For more information: +31 (0)20 530 87 51

Italy, Hungary, Spain:

  • 26 September to 19 November 2009, Miniartextil 2009, Ex-Chiesa San Francesco, Como, Italy. Catalogue: ARTE&ARTE, Via Pannilani 23, 22100 Como, Italia, e-mail:
  • 18 September to 10 January 2010 Lo Stile Dello Zar - Arte e mode tra Italia e Russia dal 14 al 18 secolo, Museo del Tessuto Prato, Via Santa Chiara 24, I-59100 Prato (FI) Italia

Russian Federation:

USA, Canada, Southamerica:

  • until 3 January 2010 Recent Acquisitions, The Textile Museum, 2320 S. Street NW, (USA) Washington, DC 20008

B O O K R E V I E W S: (see also section book reviews)

books and articles:

  • European Loop Braiding, Investigations and results, by Noémi Speiser and Joy Boutrup and others, Part I: Orthodox and unorthodox exchanging of loops in co-operation.
    Contents are as follows: Section 1: The techniques of exchanging by Noémi Speiser, Technical glossary and conventions, Sources and the Main text. Section 2: Unorthodox exchanging in loop braiding by Joy Boutrup, Introduction and definition, Interpretation of the instructions, Recipes with unorthodox exchanges, Braids with unorthodox passages and unorthodox exchange, Braids with orthodox passages in connections with unorthodox exchange, Conclusion, Bibliography, Appendix. - e-mail:
    Imported, black and white and color photos, 40 pages. $25.00

  • European Loop Braiding, Investigations and results, by Noémi Speiser and Joy Boutrup and others, Part II: Instructions for Letter Braids in 17th Century Manuscripts. Preface by Noémi Speiser.
    Contents are as follows: Instruction for Letter Braids in 17th Century Manuscripts: Preface by Noémi Speiser, Introduction, Letter braids, Types of Instructions, Verbal Instructions, Instruction in charts, Charts in the Nun's Book, Conclusion; A purse with a letter braid; Braids on a purse in the Bavarian National Museum; Bibliography. Appendix: Texts for letter braids, Braiding procedures for the verbal instructions, Braiding procedures for 14 loops, Braiding procedures for the charts in the Nun's Book.
    Imported, black and white and color photos, 64 pages. $33.00

  • Lo Stile dello Zar, Arte e Moda tra Italia e Russia dal XIV al XVIII secolo, Prato Museo del Tessuto, 19 settembre 2009 al 10 gennaio 2010, Catalogo a cura di: Daniela Degl'Innocenti, Tatiana Lekhovich.
    Autori dei saggi: Sergey Androsov, Daniela Degl'Innocenti, Marc Kramarovsky, Tatiana Lekhovich, Roberta Orsi Landini, Tatiana Slepova, Nina Tarasova, Anastasia Teplikova, Elena Yarovaya, Inna Vishnevskaya.
    Autori delle schede: Daniela Degl'Innocenti, Cristina Gnoni, Lisa Goldemberg, Tatiana Kosourova, Olga Kostjuk, Tatiana Lekhovich, Olga Maltseva, Maria Pia Mannini, Ekaterina Nekrassova, Roberta Orsi Landini, Anastasia Teplikova, Juirij Pijtnitsky, Arianna Sarti, Inna Vishnevskaya.
    Catalogo a cura di D. Degl'Innocenti e T. Lekhovic, Edizioni Skira 2009, Pag. 270, a colori, € 32.00 see also:

  • Of Fibre and Loom, the Indian Tradition, by Lotika Varadarajan and Krishna Amin-Patel, National Institute of Design Ahmedabad, 2008, ISBN: 9788173047749 / 817304774X, - Hardcover, 28 cm., pp. 308, col. & b/w figs.
    Price: RS. 5,000.00, US$ 106.38

  • Woven Beauty - Raffiniert und schön - Textilien aus Westafrika / The Art of West African Textiles; Bernhard Gardi (Museum der Kulturen Basel editor), Basel 2009, 200 pages, lavishly illustrated: 170 colour photos, 22,5 by 28 cm.
    CHF 44.-. E 28.-
    ISBN german: 978-3-856 16-481-2
    ISBN english: 978-3-856 16-484-3 - - see also accompanying exhibition

  • Trésors de la Gaule chrétienne: histoire et restauration des reliques textiles de saint Césaire d'Arles; by Anastasia Ozoline. Editions du musée départemental Arles antique, 2008, Purchase price : € 28.00
    Please contact Mrs Maryse Roche, in charge of the Museum library,

  • Die Spitze an Dachauer Hauben. Schwarz & Weiss. The Lace on caps from Dachau. Black & White. Noir & Blanc, La dentelle des coiffes de Dachau. OIDFA Arbeitsgruppe Spitze an deutschen Trachten, by Marianne Stang, Anneliese Wienands, Elda Gantner. In german, english, french, 128 pages, 2008 Uebach-Palenberg,
    ISBN 978-3-00-024521-3 OIDFA Website:

  • Vom Eise befreit, Herausgeber Deutscher Klöppelverband e.V., 2009, catalogue of bobbin lace contest. In german language, 64 pages, colour photos.
    ISBN 3-934210-77-6, e-mail

V O C A B U L A R Y: (see also section booklet)


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