Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

Nr 42
October 2011

Rheinfelden, October 20, 2011

Dear members,

This Newsletter can also be visited on the homepage, with links to the special entries  -  (see section “newsletters”). Additionally, as usual, I am sending a paper version to members without an e-mail address. You are kindly requested to send contributions to the newsletter and to the website. I will be very pleased to receive book reviews, information on exhibitions, conferences and other textile related events of interest to the members of the Embroidery Group. Visit the website for the latest News.

Many thanks for your help, I am appreciating all your further information very much.

In this letter you will find some summaries of the lectures as held at the CIETA Conference in Copenhagen. I send the summaries with subject on historic embroidery, lace and printed textiles.

The booklets of embroidery stitches are still available:
The booklets have 22 pages, each is in 4 languages (German, English, French and Italian), there are many samplers and diagrams of embroidery stitches in colour. Detail photos of 26 historic embroideries of the Iklé collection, St.Gallen, Switzerland are illustrating the use of the stitches.
They may be purchased at the special prize of Euro 12.- + postage. For ordering, please send me an e-mail:

I wish you all the  best
Yours Anne


I N F O R M A T I O N (see also section information)

Internet Exhibitions:

see also the websites of:

Internet Exhibitions:


  • 20 October to 23 October 2011 The Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair, Hardman Boulevard, Spinningfields, UK Manchester M3 3AQ
  • 28 October to 30 October 2011 Grassimesse, Leipzig, Germany, registration deadline 14 April 2011
  • 4 November to 6 November 2011 Messe für Design, Kunst, Mode, (design, art and craft fair) ArtDesign Feldkirch, STF, Palais Liechtenstein, Schlossergasse 8, A-6800 Feldkirch
  • 10 November to 13 November 2011 The Knitting and Stitching Show, Creative Exhibitions Ltd., Andrew Salmon, 8 Greenwich Quay, (UK) London SE8 3EY; venue: RDS, Dublin
  • 24 to 27 November 2011 The Knitting and Stitching Show, Creative Exhibitions Ltd., Andrew Salmon, 8 Greenwich Quay, UK London SE8 3EY; venue: Harrogate International Centre
  • 4 May to 6 May 2012 eunique - Internationale Messe für Angewandte Kunst und Design,([arts and crafts fair) Karlsruher Messe- und Kongress-GmbH, Festplatz 9, D-76137 Karlsruhe
  • 6 June to 8 June 2012 OIDFA World Lace Congress 2012, Organisation Internationale de la Dentelle au Fuseau et à l’Aiguille (OIDFA), c/o Louise Senécal, 129, rue Perron, C.P. 1081, (CDN) Quebec J3N 1H5; venue: Caen en France

Lectures, guided tours

  • 20 October 2011, 8 pm, Dormagen-Zons, Museum Zons, Schlosstrasse 1, D-41541 Dormagen-Zons, Tel. +049 02133-5302-0, Dr. Stefanie Seeberg: "Verblichene Bilder- 'Weissstickerei' in der textilen Kirchenausstattung des 13. und 14. Jahrhunderts".
  • special guided tours at Deutsches Textilmuseum, Andreasmarkt 8, D-47809 Krefeld:
    9 November, 11am to 1 pm with Dr. Isa Fleischmann-Heck, "Das Paradies der Damen...."
    at Euro 6, registration ++02151/9469450
  • Vortragsreihe: MODE Thema MODE
    Vortragssaal, Zentrale Eingangshalle Kulturforum, Matthäikirchplatz, D-10785 Berlin
    27 October 2011, 6 pm: Marco Urizzi, Torino, Bologne: Moda in Italia - 150 anni di eleganze (1861-2011)
  • Lectures and events to the exhibition "Fashion Talks"
    Location: Museum for Communication Berlin / Leipziger Straße 16 / 10117 Berlin
    25 Oktober 2011, Tuesday, 6.30 pm
    Lecture by Diana Weis: „Fashioning The Self. Mode, Jugendkulturen und Identität".
    3 Dezember 2011, Saturday, afternoon
    several activities
    in the evening: Discussion on "the new" (please check the date and time)

Study tours

  • October 23 to November 6, 2011 - TSA Study Tour to South India, Registration deadline July 29, 2011.
    The Textile Society of America Inc. offers study tours and professional development opportunities focused on textiles. This fall the TSA will offer a Study Tour to South India led by Indian textile scholar, Sandra Evenson.
    For costs, itinerary, and registration information, please visit  Please note that as part of its educational mission, TSA is offering a $1,500 travel scholarship for one TSA member to participate on the trip. Please see the Awards section of the TSA website for details and application information.
    For further information, contact
    Michele Hardy, TSA Director of External Relations

E X H I B I T I O N S: (see also section exhibition)

forthcoming exhibitions:

  • 19 October to 19 November 2011 mailles - art en laine, (art in wool) Maison du Danemark, 142 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 2e étage, (F) Paris,
  • 20 October to 5 November 2011 student works, “How to become a textile artist”, Latvijas Makslas Akademija, Tekstilmakslas Modala, Kalpaka Blv. 13, LV-1050 Riga -
  • 21 to 22 October 2011 With Cunning Needle - Four Centuries of Embroidery, Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Route 52, (USA) Winterthur, Delaware 19735 -
  • 29 October 2011 to 19 February 2012 Lost in Lace, Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, Chamberlain Square, (UK) Birmingham B3 3 -
  • deadline: 31 October 2011 American Tapestry Biennial (ATB9), American Tapestry Alliance (ATA), P.O. Box 28600, (USA) San Jose, CA 95159-8600;
    deadline: 31.10.11 Outside/Inside the Box - Fiber Philadelphia 2012, Crane Arts LLC, 1400 N American Street, (USA) Philadelphia, PA 19122-3803 -
  • 5 November to 18 December 2011 Design Prize Switzerland 2011 - Design Center Langenthal, Mühleweg 23, CH-4901 Langenthal; venue: depot for design, Mühleweg 14, Langenthal
  • 6 November 2011 to 5 February 2012 International textile art, Museen der Stadt Delmenhorst, Fabrikmuseum Nordwolle, Am Turbinenhaus 10-12, D-27749 Delmenhorst, Germany -
  • 17 November to 1 December 2011 The Handbag, Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten,
    Mutsaardstraat 31, B-2000 Antwerp
  • 18 November to 19 December 2011 Gerda Loehning (15.10.1916 - 12.12.1992). Tapestries – Paintings – Collagen, Das verborgene Museum, Schlüterstrasse 70, D-10625 Berlin-Charlottenburg
  • 18 November 2011 to 25 February 2012 From Catwalk to Cover, Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, (UK) London SE1 3XF -
  • 19 November 2011 to 4 November 2012 Timetables - combination of table linen and services from 1900 to the present, Audax Textielmuseum, Goirkestraat 96, NL-5046 GN Tilburg -
  • 22 November 2011 to 11 February 2012 Symbol & Colour. Four centuries of textile art, Galerie Kelim, Büttnerstr. 25, D-97070 Würzburg -
  • 22 November to 24 December 2011 festive dress - tuchinform, Obere Kirchgasse 8, CH-8400 Winterthur -
  • 22 November to 11 February 2012 Symbol & Colour. Four centuries of textile art, Galerie Kelim, Büttnerstr. 25, D-97070 Würzburg -
  • 29 November 2011 to 8 May 2012 The Great Designers: Part One. The Museum at FIT, N.Y. Further information:
  • until: 30 December 2011 Katagami. Japanese Colour Stencils, Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe, Steintorplatz 1, D-20099 Hamburg -
  • 2 December to 29 January 2012 Dots - Light and patterns. Tekstilkunstneren Dorte Ostergaard, Jakobsen, Det Danske Kunstindustrimuseet, Bredgade 68, DK-1260 Kobenhavn K,

current Exhibitions:


  • from 9 July 2011 Les mains d'Aubusson, Sophie Zénon, Musée de la tapisserie d'Aubusson, Cité Internationale de la Tapisserie et de l'Art Tissé, Rue William Dumazet, BP52 - 23200 Aubusson, France, +33 5 55 666 666 - +33 6 23 91 63 88
    Durant l’été 2011, l’exposition "Des métiers et des hommes" consacrée aux savoir-faire de la tapisserie d’Aubusson, par la photographe plasticienne Sophie Zénon, aura son point de départ au Musée et s’installera dans les rues d’Aubusson et de Felletin.
  • 3 July to 13 November 2011 Hussein Chalayan, récits de mode - Les Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli - 75001 Paris. Les Arts Décoratifs invitent à une «carte blanche» l’un des créateurs les plus innovants et visionnaires de son époque, Hussein Chalayan. Son oeuvre se démarque par sa rigueur intellectuelle et sa quête de perfectionnement technique allant jusqu’à défier les stéréotypes de l’univers de la mode.
    Dès ses débuts, Hussein Chalayan se distingue en explorant de façon très inventive des médiums tels que la sculpture, le mobilier, la vidéo ou les effets spéciaux du cinéma qu’il utilise pour ses collections, s’inspirant directement des réalités politiques, sociales et économiques de son époque.
    L’exposition présente cet univers riche et complexe dans lequel vêtements, installations, défilés, projections, et travaux de recherche se côtoient afin de mettre en lumière la démarche propre au créateur. (texte de presse)
  • 18 June to 13 November 2011Maria Luisa Sponga presents three works of art: opening 17 June at 18:30 - ASIA-EUROPA, Arte Tessile Contemporanea, at the Museum JEAN-LURCAT et de la Tapisserie Contemporaine di Angers, Francia - -
  • 18 June until 13 Nov. 2011 ASIA-EUROPE at Musée Jean-Lurçat in Angers, 4 Blvd. Arago, F-49100. Contemporary textile art exhibition, curated by Japanese artist Kakuko Ishii and Belgian Erny Piret. Artworks created by 21 artists from Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, Hungary, Japan and Korea. It was already to see in 2009 at the Kaunas Biennial in Lithuania and in Krefeld/Germany.
  • 21 May 2011 to 1 January 2012, Chanel: Designs for the Modern Woman, Mint Museum Randolph, Charlotte,
  • 25 April to 31 December 2011 DMC: 'L'art du fil' - Musée Textile de Haute-Alsace, Rue du Parc,F- 68470 Husseren-Wesserling, France, Tél: 03 89 38 28 08 - Fax: 03 89 82 68 32 - , history of the DMC yarn factory in Mulhouse, which, existing since two hundred year, still produces basic material for creative people.

Germany, Saarland, Austria:

  • 6 October 2011 to 21 January 2011 „Materials Revisited. 10th Trienial for form and contents 2011“ Frankfurt am Main, Museum für angewandte Kunst, Schaumainkai 17, 60594 Frankfurt am Main, Telefon: 069- 212-340 37
  • 7 October 2011 to 26 February 2012 FASHION TALKS! Berlin, Museum für Kommunikation, Leipziger Straße 16, 10117 Berlin
  • 25 September 2011 to 15 April 1012 "Es putzt ganz ungemein" - Accessoires und Damenkleidung der letzten 200 Jahre aus dem Bestand des Deutschen Textilmuseums, Deutsches Textilmuseum, Andreasmarkt 8, D-47809 Krefeld, Germany (the museum remains closed from 31 December 2011 to 23 January 2012)
  • 18 September to 30 October 2011 wie handarbeiten unsere Nachbarn - Textilmuseum "Die Scheune", Krickenbecker Allee 21, D-41334 Nettetal-Hinsbeck
  • 15 September to 29 October 2011 Gerda Obermoser - Batiken auf Holz, Galerie Smend, Mainzer Str. 31, D-50678 Köln
  • 15 July ot 1 January 2012 Augenweide - Die Fächersammlung des Münchner Stadtmuseums, Münchner Stadtmuseum/Modemuseum, St.-JakobsPlatz 1, D-80331 München -
  • 20 March to 18 December 2011 Spitzenkunst in Schweden - Klöppeln zwischen Tradition und Moderne, (lace art) Klöppelmuseum, Burgstr. 16, D-91183 Abenberg, Germany -
  • 21 August 2011 to 5 February 2012 Textile Philatelie, Briefmarken an vielen Geschichtsfäden, Haus der Seidenkultur, Historische Paramentenweberei, Hubert Gotzes, Luisenstr. 15, D-47799 Krefeld -
  • until 31 October 2011, Verkleiden - Verwandeln - Verführen, Bühnenkostüme aus der Sammlung des Österreichischen Theatermuseums, Wien, Österreichisches Theatermuseum, Lobkowitzplatz 2 / A 1010 Wien,
  • 20 May to 29 April 2012 Oya - Ottoman fashion, Staatliches Museum für Völkerkunde, Maximilianstr. 42, D-80538 München -
  • 1 August 2010 to 31 December 2011 "Identität und Wandel: Textilien der Maya aus Guatemala", Staatliches Museum für Völkerkunde München, Maximilianstraße 42, D-80538 München, Telefon +49 (0)89 210 136 100,


  • until: 30 October 2011 The Rhythm of Stitch, Gawthorpe Hall, Burnley Road, Padiham, (UK) Burnley, Lancs. BB12 8UA
  • 13 October to 17 December 2011 Performative Technologies. Moroccan Textiles of the Sirwan Women, The Brunei Gallery, School of Oriental & African Studies, University of London, (UK) London WC1
  • 29 September to 20 November 2011 Labcraft: digital adventures in contemporary craft, Leamington Spa Art Gallery and Museum, Royal Pump Rooms, The Parade, Royal Leamington Spa, (UK) Warwickshire CV32 4AA -
  • 14 February 2011 to 8 January, 2012 , What will she wear? The Enduring Romance of the Wedding Dress, Fashion Museum, Bath,
  • 29 January and continuing throughout 2011, Behind the scenes at the Fashion Museum - The Historic Collection, Fashion Museum, Bath -
  • until: 30 October 2011 The Rhythm of Stitch, Gawthorpe Hall, Burnley Road, Padiham, (UK) Burnley, Lancs. BB12 8UA main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findplace/wgawthorpehall
  • From 1 december 2010, Hats. Shoes. Bags and Dress Clips, The Fashion Museum, Bath,

Netherlands, Belgium:

  • 14 September to 19 February 2012 "Dream the world awake" - Walter van Beirendonck, ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen – MoMu, Nationalestraat 28, B-2000 Antwerpen, T +323 470 27 70
  • 4 September to 27 November 2011 Stories of Life: Narrative Samplers Tilleke Schwarz, Grote Kerk , Martplein, NL-7811 - AM Emmen
  • 6 November 2010 to 6 November 2011 Lelies en distels - table damask - Audax Textielmuseum, Goirkestraat 96, NL-5046 GN Tilburg
  • 8 April to 31 December, 2011, Handmade, Le Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle, Brussels, Rue de la Violette 12 - 1000 Brussels -
    - Telephone for information : 02 213 44 50
  • 25 June 2011 to 8 January 2012 Prints! in fashion and costume history, Stedelijk Modemuseum , Gasthuisstr. 11, B-3500 Hasselt; -
  • embroidery artist Tilleke Schwarz, - e-mail:

Scandinavia, Denmark, Finland:

  • 8 April 2011 to 8 January 2012 Royal Vintage, Royal Armoury, Stockholm,
  • from 17 April 2011 Fashion without waist in 1920s, Malmö museer, Malmö.
  • New permanent exhibition, Power of Fashion - 300 years of clothing, Nordiska museet, Stockholm, Sweden,
  • Italy, Spain, Hungary, Greece, Turkey:

    Russia, Lithuania, Ukraine, Solvakia:

    • 18 to 29 October 2011 Fibermen: in Kherson/Ukraine, juried International Fibre Art Exhibition giving space to male textile artists only. Organised by Ludmila Egorova from „Scythia“. Artists can submit two works. The participation fee is Euro 50,-. The application should contain 1 image (18 x 24 cm, 300 dpi in jpg) of each art work, 1 photo of the artist (10 x 15 cm, 300 dpi/jpg) and a CV. - Ludmila Egorova, P.O. Box 79, UKR-73028 Kherson; tel: +38-067/5538281;; Registration deadline: 15 August 2011
    • 21 September to 31 December 2011 Estonian Textile - Art Exhibition / Monika Järg, Gallery Meno Parkas, Rotuses Square 27, LT-44279 Kaunas
    • 15 September to 20 October 2011 Exhibition of the Textile Association of Latvia, Latvijas Tekstilmäkslas Asociácija, Kalpaka Blvd. 13, LV-1867 Riga; venue: The church of St Peter in Riga;
    • 6 September to 15 January 2011 Poiret and the Art Deco Style in Fashion Design, The Moscow Kremlin Museum
    • Virtual exhibition, Costumes of Russian Emperors and Empresses from the Moscow Kremlin funds Virtual exhibition, Moscow Kremlin Museums
      The display is organized according to a chronological principle and presents precious items from the epoch of Peter the Great to the time of the last Emperor Nicholas II.
      The purpose of the project was to show the highlights of the Kremlin collection, especially the fashionable secular dresses in European and Russian styles, which were intended to be used during coronation ceremonies.

    USA, Canada, Southamerica, Mexico:

    • 1 October 2011 to 29 January 2012 Sheila Hicks: Fifty years, Mint Museum of Art, 2730 Randolph Road, USA Charlotte, NC 28207;
    • 1 October 2011 to 6 January 2012 Young Brides, Old Treasures: Macedonian Embroidered Dress, Museum of International Folk Art, Museum of New Mexico, Camino Leijo off Old Santa Fe Trail, (USA) Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505 -
    • 17 September 2011 to 27 May 2012 Domestic Embroideries, Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., USA Boston, MA 02115-5523 -
    • 16 September through January 7, 2012 - Daphne Guinness - New York - Approximately 100 garments and accessories from the personal collection of Daphne Guinness will be featured in this exhibition, along with clothes that she has designed herself, a selection of her vertiginous shoes, and her films, The Phenomenology of the Body and Mnemosyne. The exhibition will be co-curated by Daphne Guinness and Valerie Steele (press releaset) - Infos: The Museum at FIT
    • 25 May until 5 November 2011 - New York - Sporting Life explores the relationship between active sportswear and fashion from the mid-19th century through the present. Indeed, much of today’s active sportswear is just as fashionable as it is functional. (press release)
      Infos: The Museum at FIT
    • 15 May to 15 November 2011 Magic Squares: The Patterned Imagination in Muslim Africa, Textile Museum of Canada, 55 Centre Ave., (CDN) Toronto, Ontario M5G 2H5 -
    • 4 February 2011 to 8 January 2012 Second Lives: The Age-Old Art of Recycling Textiles The Textilemuseum, Washington, USA Infos:
    • Through Summer 2011, Tailoring Philadelphia: Tradition and Innovation in Menswear, Philadelphia Museum of Art -
    • 2 January 2010 to 31 December 2011 Threads of Identity:
      Contemporary Maya Textiles, Mint Museum of Art, 2730 Randolph
      Road, (USA) Charlotte, NC 28207 -
    • 30 January to 31 December 2011 American Indian Art, Denver Art Museum, 100 W. 14th Ave. Parkway, (USA) Denver, CO 80204-2788 -

    M E E T I N G S (see also section meetings)


    • 21 to 22 October 2011 With Cunning Needle, Four Centuries of Embroidery, a Winterthur USA Needlework Conference - -
      e-mail - View pdf of brochure and registration form -
      by Phone: Call 800.448.3883 for up-to-date workshop/tour availability
      by Mail: Send completed form & payment to: Winterthur Information & Tours Office, Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library, (USA) Winterthur, DE 19735 - by Fax: 302.888.4953
    • 26 October 2011 Lederhandwerker-Treffen - Thema: Federkielstrickerei, Österreichisches Sattlermuseum, Ipfmühlstr. 15, A-4492 Hofkirchen -
    • 27 October 2011 International Conference: Machine Lace, Tradition and Innovation.
      Please register via e-mail or fax.
      Beate Schad, Verein Vogtländische Textilgeschichte Plauen e.V.
      Sitz Schaustickerei, Obstgartenweg 1, 08529 Plauen, Germany
      Tel. 03741/443187, Fax. 03741/384311
      Mail: - Web:
    • 27 October to 29 October 2011 Das Leben als Kunstwerk: Der Dandy als kulturhistorisches Phänomen im 19. und frühen 20. Jahrhundert. Berlin, Gesellschaft für Geistesgeschichte, c/o Moses Mendelssohn Zentrum für europäisch-jüdische Studien.
      Hörsaalruine im Medizinhistorischen Museum der Charité, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin and: Humboldt Graduate School, Luisenstraße 56, 10117 Berlin
      Registration until 1 October 2011: Gesellschaft für Geistesgeschichte
      c/o Moses Mendelssohn Zentrum für europäisch-jüdische Studien, Frau Anna-Carolin Augustin, Am Neuen Markt 8, 14467 Potsdam, Telefon (0331) 28094-0 - Fax (0331) 28094-50 -
    • 5 November 2011 at The Art Workers’ Guild, London, UK New Research Day. The Association of Dress Historians, invites you to submit a paper for our New Research Day.
      Call for Papers: deadline:
      14 August 2011. Formerly CHODA, The Association of Dress Historians has been established to provide a meeting place for those involved in the professional practice of dress and textile history. Please submit an abstract of 300-400 words to Helen Walter - by 14th August 2011
      This includes, but is not limited to, students, museum curators, designers, journalists, and academics in
      a number of fields, as well as independent researchers.
    • 25 to 27 November 2011 29th Annual Conference, The Textile Society, PO Box 56230, UK London, N4 4XQ; venue: Ashmolean Museum, Oxford -
    • 1 to 3 December 2011 Practice-Based Research in Art & Design - Wir als Promovenden des Ph.D. Promotions-Studienganges Kunst und Design / Freie Kunst ( PhD by Project) an der Bauhaus Universität Weimar wollen Künstlerische Forschung und Designforschung in ihren vielen Manifestationen verstehen lernen und uns über neue Techniken, Werkzeuge sowie kulturtheoretische Bezugnahmen austauschen. - Info:
      Deadline Call for Papers: 15. Juni 2011
    • 2 December 2011 Symposium Fashion in Translation, Centre for Fashion Studies,
      Stockholm University, Sweden
      The symposium is hosted by the Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University and is convened by Professor Peter McNeil and Dr Louise Wallenberg. The symposium is open to all.
      For more information on this symposium visit or
    • 8 to 10 December 2011 Developments in Dress History, University of Brighton, UK
      The conference will explore the meanings of dress in the widest range of cultural and historical contexts and therefore welcomes proposals on the following or other themes:
      • Dress History and Design History
      • Ethnography and dress
      • The material culture of dress
      • Dress and museums
      • Collecting dress
      • Consumption and dress
      • Dress and Identity
      • Dress as an object of study
      • Teaching Dress History
      Please send a 200 word abstract to - by 1st August 2011.
    • 17 to 18 March 2012 “Interpreting History through Costume”, Costume Society of America: Western Region 2012 Symposium; at The William S. Hart Ranch & Museum in Santa Clarita, CA. Deadlines: Your proposal abstract and email must be received by October 15, 2011 To download the full call for papers, Click here (.doc)
    • 21 to 23 March 2012 3000 Years of Colour from Tradtition to Art and Innovation, 2nd Intl. Symposium on Hallstatt-Textiles - Naturhistorisches Museum Wien, Burgring 7, A-1010 Wien
    • 22 to 24 March 2012 Veil and Veiling in Europe, 1450-1650: Revisiting. Anunal Meeting of Renaissance Society of America, Washington DC, USA.
      Please e-mail a short CV and a 150-word draft
      to both Mary Kovel, University of Arizona - and Chia-hua Yeh, Queen Mary, University of London - by the 20th of May, 2011.
      We would like to invite papers that focus on fresh materials, new angles, or special cases regarding the object of the veil and the custom of veiling. Given that this was a global issue in the early modern world, papers concerning Asia and the Middle East are also welcome and will be presented as contrasting examples.
    • deadline: 1 February 2012 Scythia 9 - Int. Biennial Symposium - Conference, Tekstyl’na Grupa, c/o Ludmila Egorova, P.O. Box 79, UA-73028 Kherson
      19 to 24 June 2012 Scythia 9 - Int. Biennial Symposium - Conference, Tekstyl’na Grupa, c/o Ludmila Egorova, P.O. Box 79, UA-73028 Kherson -
    • 13 to 16 September 2012 First International Festival of extraordinary textiles, Musée Bargoin, Département tapis, 45, rue Ballainvilliers, F-63000 Clermond-Ferrand
    • September 19 to 22, 2012 The Textile Society of America invites paper proposals for its upcoming symposium, Textiles & Politics,to be held in Washington, D.C.  We seek presentations from all textile-related disciplines and interdisciplinary areas, including but not limited to anthropology, art, art history, conservation, cultural geography, design, economics, ethnic studies, history, linguistics, marketing, mathematics, political science, and theater. TSA encourages bothorganized sessions and individual papers from scholars, researchers, artists, gallery and museum professionals, and others from around the world.  Symposium proceedings will be published early in 2013. Call for papers: abstracts due: October 2011
    • November 8-11 2012, Costume Colloquium III: Past Dress Future Fashion
      The “Call for Papers” deadline for the third edition of Costume Colloquium dedicated to themes related to Past Dress – Future Fashion,
      will expire on October 31, 2011. While there is still time to submit an abstract, we would like to remind you that once the papers have been selected, the formulated program with all inclusive special events and onsite visits will be announced by the end of this year (January 2012). Please register at the site in order to receive updates and information regarding the upcoming event.
      Colloquium organizational secretariat at

    B O O K R E V I E W S: (see also section book reviews)

    books and articles:

    since October 2011:

    • Amy Mitten, Autopsy of the Montenegrin Stitch, Exhumed, first published by Amy Mitten Design Ltd. 2011, ISBN 978-09868686-0-3, 112 pages, see
    • Christa Jeitner, Prunk war nicht Protz, Höfische Stoffe und gestickte Bilder aus der Zeit der ersten Hohenzollern in Brandenburg, in: Im Dialog mit Raubrittern und schönen Madonnen, Studien zur brandenburgischen und vergleichenden Landesgeschichte, hgg. Clemens Bergstedt, Heinz-Dieter Heimann, Knut Kiesant, Peter Knüvener, Mario Müller, Kurt Winkler, Bd. 6, 2011, p. 104-111, ISBN 978-3-86732-118-1 - Lukas Verlag für Kunst- und Geistesgeschichte, Kollwitzstraße 57, D-10405 Berlin,
    • Evelin Wetter, Landesherren, Kirchen, Städte und die Kunst in der Mark Brandenburg, in: Im Dialog mit Raubrittern und schönen Madonnen, Studien zur brandenburgischen und vergleichenden Landesgeschichte, hgg. Clemens Bergstedt, Heinz-Dieter Heimann, Knut Kiesant, Peter Knüvener, Mario Müller, Kurt Winkler, Bd. 6, 2011, p. 91-103, ISBN 978-3-86732-118-1 - Lukas Verlag für Kunst- und Geistesgeschichte, Kollwitzstraße 57, D-10405 Berlin,
    • Evelin Wetter und Mario Müller, Der Hut der Havelberger Bischöfe, in: Im Dialog mit Raubrittern und schönen Madonnen, Studien zur brandenburgischen und vergleichenden Landesgeschichte, hgg. Clemens Bergstedt, Heinz-Dieter Heimann, Knut Kiesant, Peter Knüvener, Mario Müller, Kurt Winkler, Bd. 6, 2011, p. 231-237, ISBN 978-3-86732-118-1 - Lukas Verlag für Kunst- und Geistesgeschichte, Kollwitzstraße 57, D-10405 Berlin,

    at CIETA Conference 2011:

    • Cecilia Candreus, De Hädangangnas Heraldik, En studie av broderade begravningsfanor ca 1670-1720,
      Riga 2008,
      ISBN 978-91 7844 750 3. 346 pages, with english summary: The heraldry of the dead. A study of embroidered funeral flags c. 1670-1720
    • Lena Dahren, Med kant av guld och silver, en studie av knypplade barder och uddar av metall 1550-1640, 2010, (Edged with gold and silver... a study of metal, bobbin-made borders and edgings, 1550-1640), Uppsala Universitet (printed in Västerås) ISBN 978-91-628-8196-2  
      The study examines bobbin-made borders and edgings in gold and silver during the period 1550-1640. The aim of the thesis is to study the technique of bobbin made lace and to place it in a historical, social and economic context. This is done by describing and analyzing samples of bobbin made lace in gold and silver manufactured during the period 1550-1640 and giving a picture of production, procurement, use and reuse of bobbin made lace. 
      The divided aim implies that the thesis has two paths. The earlier chapters investigate production, dealing with equipment, pattern books, techniques and patterns. The analysis and interpretation has its anchorage in deeply established practical knowledge and experience of bobbin lace making. The later chapters, dealing with procurement, use and reuse, are based on studies of portrait archives and preserved artefacts. The study is built on object-based and archival research alongside portrait studies.  The primary sources are bobbin-made borders and edgings preserved on ecclesiastical textiles in Sweden, documentation from the Swedish Royal accounts, and dress and portraits found in European collections. 
    • Margareta Ridderstedt, Veneziansk Sidendamast, 2008, 363 pages, ISBN 978-91-7209-500-7
    • Anne de Thoisy, Parties de Campagne, jardins et champs dans la toile imprimée XVIIIe - XIXe siècles, Tome I et Tome II, Le Coffret et ses deux volumes : 25 euros*, ISBN978-2-919165-01-8
      Livraison France métropolitaine (Colissimo 48h) : + 8 euros, Livraison CEE : 15 euros
      Règlement par chèque adressé à l'ordre de Soferic L'édition à :
      Soferic L'édition, 25, rue du maréchal Foch, 78 000  Versailles
      Ou par virement (international uniquement)
      IBAN (International Bank Account Number)        BIC (Bank Identifier Code)
      FR76 3008 7332 0100 0697 9350 133                   CMCIFRPP
      "Ref : "Parties de Campagne"
    • Isa Fleischmann-Heck, Hgg., Es putzt ganz ungemein - Accessoires und Damenkleidung der letzten 200 Jahre, Texte: Uta-Christiane Bergemann, Isa Fleischmann-Heck, Brigitte Tietzel, ISBN 978-3-941559-24-0, 2011, Euro 10.-
    • Roberta Orsi Landini, Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Cosimo I de' Medici's style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici - © Mauro Pagliai 2011, cm 24x31, pp. 312, ill. col., cart., € 77,00 - Price US $129.00 - ISBN: 978-88-564-0099-1 - Forewords by Kirsten Aschengreen Piacenti and Caterina Chiarelli. With a contribution by Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols.English and Italian texts. - order from DBBC
      After Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza (2005), the research project goes on, now with male clothing of the same period. Thanks to the papers from the Archivio di Stato of Florence, the author reconstructs the whole wardrobe of Eleonora’s husband, Cosimo I de’ Medici, day by day from 1544 until 1574, that is from the first time notes about the duke’s clothes appeared in official documents till the death of Cosimo. The founder of the grand-ducal dynasty created his public image with great care and determination, but Roberta Orsi Landini focus attention as well on Cosimo I’s personal tastes. The book describes fashion development in Florence through the analysis of items from the duke’s wardrobe and makes confrontations with potrait-paintings in order to define when new styles started up and which were the most favourite colours, materials and decorations of the period. Besides, the manufacturers panorama is meticulously reconstructed. Synoptic tables illustrate every change during the forty years; they are also a great tool to date paintings. Moreover, the author reconstructs the paper patterns of Cosimo and his son don Garçia’s burial gowns. Appendix includes daily off-the-peg clothes annotations, and lists amounts and materials in detail.
    • Marzia Cataldi Gallo, Le vesti dei Papi I parati della Sacrestia Pontificia Seicento e Settecento is aimed to illustrate for the first time the liturgical vestments and some items related to daily dress of Popes. These really extraordinary vestments, mostly enriched with golden embroideries, are kept in the Papal Sacristy near the Sistine Chapel and have never been shown before. This first book describes the liturgical vestments of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries (from Paul V (1605-1620) to Pius VI (1717-1799)), the second – whose pubblication is expected for next year – will be a survey of the vestments of Popes who have been elected between the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. The oldest vestments preserved are those of Pope Paul V, brocaded with the emblems of the important Borghese family, just like those of the other popes who followed, all richly decorated with the arms of their families in the redundant baroque taste inspired by the greatest artists of their era, i.e. Bernini. In addition to liturgical vestments there are references to pontifical dayly dresses (a “sottana and falda” worn by Innocenzo X), hats and shoes.
      24 x 29 cm, 175 pages with illustrations in colour, at Euro 50,00 - ISBN: 978-88 -6405-260 -1, in italian language.
      Prof. Dott. Marzia Cataldi Gallo, Salita San Francesco 7/4, 16124 Genova, tel. 00 39 010 8606232 - 3450472478,
      mail: -
      Published at: De Ferrari Comunicazione S.r.l., Via Riboli 20, 16145 Genova, Tel. 010 3621713 - Fax 010 3626830
    • Rosalba Peppi, Marita Rita Faleri, 2010 - Nappe, forme di ornamento tessile, 2010, 144 pages, ISBN 978-88-905335-0-1 Euro 30. - Rosalba Pepi and Maria Rita Faleri with Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols have just released their latest publication on Italian Tassels! (Tassels, forms of textile ornament).
    • Ann Hedlund, Gloria F. Ross and Modern Tapestry, Nov 29, 2010, 378 p., 10 x 12, 36 b/w + 416 color illus.
      ISBN: 9780300166354, Cloth: $65.00
        - features the collaborative work of 28 acclaimed modernist painters and sculptors, including Helen Frankenthaler (Ross’s sister), Kenneth Noland, and Louise Nevelson, with several dozen traditional-yet-innovative weavers in France, Scotland, and the Southwestern United States. Brief biographies of the artists, letters, notes, sketches, and photographs illustrate the practical and aesthetic challenges that occupied Gloria Ross for over three decades.
    • Anne Hedlund, Navajo Weaving from the Santa Fe Collection, 1971-1996, National Cowboy Hall of Fame, Oklahoma City, 1997, ISBN 1-56944-158-8
    • Ancient Textiles Series Vol. 8: Textile Terminologies, in the ancient near east and mediterranean from the third to the first millenia BC, edited by C. Michel and M.L. Nosch, 2010, ISBN 978-1-84217-975-8 available from oxford books, Oxford UK, or - David Brown Book Company PO box 511, Oakville, CT 06779, USA: phone: 860-945-9329, fax: 860-945-9468
    • The Medieval Broadcloth, Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption, edited by Katherine Vestergard Pedersen, and Marie-Louise B. Nosch, Oxford books, 2009, ISBN 978-1-84217-381-7, phone: Oxford UK 01865-241249, fax: 01865-794449 - David Brown Book Company PO box 511, Oakville, CT 06779, USA: phone: 860-945-9329, fax: 860-945-9468
    • NESAT X, The North European Symposium for Archeological Textiles, edited by Eva Andersson Strand, Margarita Gleba, Ulla Mannering, Cherine Munkholt and Maj Ringgaard, Oxbow Books, 2010, ISBN 978-1-84217-370-1
    • Carole Gillis and Marie-Louise B. Nosch, Ancient Textiles, Production, Craft and Society, published by Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2007, ISBN 978 1 84217 202 5, in english, 286 pages.

    CIETA Conference in Copenhagen (see also)

      P A P E R S on E M B R O I D E R Y, L A C E, P R I N T E D T E X T I L E S
      MONDAY October 3rd 2011    
      Cliodna Devitt, Ireland    
      The Waterford Collection of the 15th liturgical vestments
    This forgotten collection was discovered in Waterford's medieval cathedral shortly after 1773. Comprising chasubles, dalmatics, copes, stoles and maniples made of Northern European embroidery and Italian velvet dating to the second half of the 15th century, the embroidery style and technique suggests several places of manufacture. Embroidered images include medieval narrative themes and their design is derived from various pictorial sources.
    Questions to be addressed include the supply of the unusual patterned velvets and assembly location. The vestments and surviving documents throw light on religious customs and activities in the cathedral and on Waterford's trade connections.
      Lena Dahren, Sweden    
      Regina Basilier - dealer of luxuries in the early 17th century
    It is rare to identify items dated early 17th century from inventory lists and even more to find reference to a trader.
    An inventory list from 1626, concerning furniture that belonged to the Swedish queen Kristina the elder, identifies a bed with curtains and canopy of white atlas and silver bobbin edgings - and gives the trader of the bed, Regina Basiliers, merchant of luxury belonging to a well-known trading family in Antwerp.
    Questions asked are: Who was Regina Basilier? How was her trading organized? What was she dealing in?
      Melinda Watt, United States of America    
      The Four Parts of the World: expressions of global aspirations in late Stuart Britain
    English embroidery of the 17th century is known for its imaginative use of Continental and British print sources, from biblical illustrations to popular contemporary subjects. This paper will explore the iconography of two unusual English embroidered panels from the Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection, whose decoration derives from late 17th century continental maps, among other sources. The subjects depicted on the panels include the Four Parts of the World, the Four Seasons, and Four of the Planets. The source of this imagery and its possible significance to a contemporary audience will be considered, along with a discussion of the original use of the panels.
      Hanna E. H. Martinsen, Canada    
      Three exceptional Swedish gentlemen
    Two Eighteenth Century Immigrants bringing with them the latest in Textile Printing Technology, and the Swede who pioneered Chemistry Instruction for Swedish Textile Dyers.
    While textile printing was illegal in France, the Master Printer Jan de Broen was invited to establish a textile printing facility in the Stockholm area. He arrived in 1722 and began production at the Sickia workshop five years later.
    Tobias Lang trained as a textile printer in his native Hungary. After shipwrecking on Gotland in 1784 he settled in Visby. His existing notebooks provide an extensive description of printing developments and substantiate this craft's progress.
    In the 1740's the Swedish Office for Industrial Development encouraged the famous chemist Carl Theophil Scheffer to teach the first specialized chemistry classes for textile dyers.
      TUESDAY October 4th 2011    
      Barbara Karl, Austria    
      Habsburg collecting of textiles during the 16th and early 17th centuries
    During the time period in question the imperial Habsburg collections counted among the most important of Europe. They represented more than a mere assemblage of art objects. The concepts of collecting were multilayered and complex. The representative Kunst- und Wunderkammern for instance unfolded a theatrum mundi and were a laboratory half way between alchemy and science.
    Chapels and monasteries as places of collecting continued introspective medieval traditions. The proposed paper will explore the fascinating role of textiles as Habsburg collectibles of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and will attempt to answer questions such as: What was the nature of the textiles collected? Where were they stored? How were they used, received and exhibited?
      Chiara Buss, Italy    
      Weaving and embroidering with metal wire in Milan, 1550 -1630
    From a recent research on Milanese silks it emerges that extremely thin metal wire was the most common metal thread used to cover the ground of brocaded silks and plain cloths-of-gold produced in Milan in the second half of the 16th century. Wire - much thicker - was also used for the most important embroideries for the Church and the princely courts of Europe. The numerous documented Milanese silks strongly modify the general trend to attribute to Turkey or Spain such brocades and embroideries.
    In the course of the same research it was possible to recognize the very thick and narrow strip obtained from flattened and drawn wire, a type of lamella often described in historical documents, but that had never been recognized in Italian silks before.
      Marielle Martiniani-Reber, Switzerland    
      A Siam ambassador on a lace from the Musee d'art et d'histoire of Geneva ?
    A long band of lace has caught our attention on several occasions. Indeed it has been published twice before, once on the occasion of a book edited at the time of the foundation of the Musee d'art et d'histoire in 1910, the second time in a catalogue produced for the exhibition of some of our lace collection in Japan, written by Youlie Spantidaki, in 2001.
    In the descriptive part of her review, Youlie Spantidaki noted the difficulties in attributing this lace to a precise production centre and date, because of its particular iconography. On the earlier inventory papers, the figure was identified with a character from the commedia dell' arte, as suggested by Giorgio Sangiorgi, the previous owner of the lace. Later the figure was, as seemed more likely, perceived as a Chinaman. Taking up this hypothesis, Youlie Spantidaki noted a few more 'tchinese-like"details.
    The present article will analyse in a precise manner the pattern of this lace and attempt to identify the theme and its models.
      Beth Walsh, Great-Britain    
      Lace and mortality in seventeenth-century England
    This paper focuses on how a sustained examination of the representation of lace can enable a deeper understanding of the perception of mortality in seventeenth-century English society. The representation of lace is, of course, only one element of an art object, but my aim is to demonstrate that such a study can provide a more acute understanding of a given society and the art objects it produced.
    Including references to lace in diaries and plays, my examples range from oil paintings to memorial sculpture. The representation of lace carries meaning and agency concerning life, death and mourning which should not be ignored.
      Daniele Veron-Denise, France    
      The gold embroidered ornament from Berlaymont (Brussels) and the French Revolution
    Until the autumn of 2010 the nuns of the Berlaymont monastery in Belgium possessed a remarkable and sumptuous liturgical ornament, embroidered in gold thread on gold background, which they believed came from the generosity of Archduke Albert and Archduchess Isabelle (between 1598 and 1621). This attribution does not stand up to the stylistic study of the works that gives a date towards the end of the 17th century, or early in the next one. We have compared this ornament with another one, almost identical but embroidered in gold thread on silver ground, kept today in the cathedral of Verdun in France. And we put forward the hypothesis that both these works and a third one, identical to the Berlaymont ornament, all come from the famous twin abbeys of Stavelot-Malmedy in present-day Belgium, whose treasures were dispersed by the French Revolution.
      Isabella Campagnol, Italy    
      Textiles in Venice in the early 20th century: new discoveries
    Guido Cadorin, Vittorio Zecchin, Umberto Bellotto and Raffaele Mainella were well-known artists working in Venice in the first half of the 20th century. Their works were appreciated all over in Italy and admired in such important exhibitions as the Venetian Biennale, the Esposizione Intemazionale of Monza or the Triennale in Milan.
    Much less known is their work as textile designers, even if many of their creations were also shown in those same important venues.
    The paper will present examples of these textiles, most of them unpublished and only recently rediscovered in the historical archive of the Venetian textile company Rubelli.
      Lotika Varadarajan, India    
      The Tapis Moghol - Provenance and Patronage
    The Tapis Moghol, a hanging of extraordinary beauty, is in the holdings of the Musee de l'impression sur Etoffes, Mulhouse, France. A 17th to 181 century date could be ascribed to it. The hanging is extremely complex and brings together artistic features drawn from Persian, Thai,
    Chinese, Japanese and Malay manifestations while there is affinity with astrological paintings in Mogul, Persian and Deccani sources. Parallels exist with manuscript paintings at the Saraswati Mahal Library Thanjavur. Danish links with Tanjore are known and the paper seeks to position this textile within the purview of Danish provenance and patronage.
      Elsie Janssen, The Netherlands    
      The textile collection at the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam
    The Rijksmuseum Amsterdam has a rich collection of textiles: besides tapestries, chintz, silk fabrics and printed textiles, there are damasks, oriental carpets, embroideries. Art Nouveau textiles and others. Parts of the collection have been published in catalogues and articles. Unfortunately, at this moment one cannot yet find much information about it on line. As the new curator of textiles, I would like to make the collection more visible. In this lecture I will look at the importance of the textile collection, give an idea about its diversity and compare it with some other museum collections.
      Anne Wanner-JeanRichard, Switzerland    
      The Structure of a Vocabulary of Embroidery Stitches
    The project of a glossary of embroidery stitches arose among the members of the "Embroidery Group", one of the specialized groups under the banner of the CIETA. It aims to serve as reference to those experts who study and catalogue historic textiles. The scope of the glossary is also to help preserve knowledge about an ornamental craft which has been practised for centuries, but is today threatened with oblivion.
    I shall present the 4 booklets with basic embroidery stitches which have been published in the last 2 years. And I shall try to find an answer on how to continue with the project.

    V O C A B U L A R Y (see also section)


    V O R S T I C H
    Schrägstich, Winkelstich
    Steppstich, Stielstich


      R U N N I N G ... S T I T C H
    Slanting Stitch, Paris Stitch
    Back Stitch, Stem Stitch



    P O I N T ... A V A N T
    point diagona, point de Parisl
    point arrière, point de tige

      P U N T O ...   F I L Z A
    punto diagonale, punto Parigi
    punto indietro, punto erba
      Booklet of 22 pages, in 4 languages (German, English, French and Italian)
    Many samplers and diagrams of embroidery stitches in colour.
    Detail photos of historic embroideries of the Iklé collection, St.Gallen, Switzerland.

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