Conference on "Dress and Gender"

Courtauld Institute of Art, London (England)

July 2-3, 2004

This year's Courtauld History of Dress Association annual conference 

seeksto re-visit the relationship between dress and gender in  history, a line of scholarly inquiry that benefits from increasingly sophisticated and nuanced research.

The programme offers both  theoretical studies and object-based presentations, with some papers  that engage with both methodologies. Topics to be addressed include: 
the sartorial performance and display of masculinity and femininity;  the place of gender in consumerism and the feminization of fashion;  and the gendered framework of the clothing trades, including the  participation of women as makers and suppliers.

These papers draw on a wide variety of disciplinary approaches and address a range of issues, revealing a scope and breadth that speaks to the rich  scholarly appeal of this important topic.

The conference will appeal  to anyone who is interested in the intersections of dress and gender,  including those studying or researching any aspect of dress history. It is anticipated that a select number of papers from the conference  will be published in a special issue of Fashion Theory: The Journal  of Dress, Body & Culture.

or contact Dr. Sophie White at
Assistant Director, Program in Gender Studies
University of Notre Dame
325 O'Shaughnessy Hall
Notre Dame, IN 46556-0368
U.S.A.
white.131@nd.edu.

Tel: (574) 631-8635
Fax: (574) 631-4268
swhite1@nd.edu

CONFERENCE PROGRAMME:

Friday 2 July 2004
10.00 Registration and coffee
10.45 Welcome

SESSION 1: PERFORMING GENDER

11.00
Masque-ulinities: Changing Dress as a Display of Masculinity in the Superhero Genre
Dr. Friedrich Weltzien, Freie Universität Berlin

11.30
Oriental Chic in the Colonial World: the Roles of Dress and Gender in the Orientalist Narratives of Pierre Loti
Dr. Hélène de Burgh, University of Melbourne

12.00
Julia Thecla's Sartorial Masquerade as an Act of Resistance in the Art World
Dr. Joanna Gardner-Huggett, DePaul University

12.30 Discussion
Chair: Dr. Sophie White, University of Notre Dame, CHODA

12.45 Lunch

SESSION 2: POLICING THE BODY

14.15
Sight, Sin and Sexuality in Sixteenth-Century Huguenot France
Dr. Graeme Murdock, University of Birmingham

14.45
Men Challenging Men: Storm Troopers, Uniforms and Bourgeois Taste in the Nazi 'Revolution' of the 1920s
Dr. Madeleine Hurd, Södertörn College

15.15 Tea

16:00
Dress and Gender in Central East European Socialist Countries, 1949-1959
Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion

16.30 Discussion
Chair: Dr. Margaret Scott, Courtauld Institute of Art, CHODA

17.15 CHODA AGM - all members welcome

Saturday 3 July 2004
10.00 Registration and coffee
10.30 Welcome

SESSION 3: MASCULINITIES

10.45
Tightly Tied Men: Corset-Constructed Masculinity in the Nineteenth Century
Dr. Elizabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch, Niederrhein University

11.15
John Chute, Esq. and the Suits at The Vyne: An English Gentleman's Dress and Masculinity
Daniel Claro, University of Delaware

11.45
The Art of Walking: Mobility, Gender and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century
Dr. Giorgio Riello, London School of Economics / Victoria & Albert Museum;
Dr. Peter McNeil, University of New South Wales

12.15 Discussion
Chair: Professor Christopher Breward, Victoria & Albert Museum and London College of Fashion

12.30 Lunch

SESSION 4: WOMEN AND CONSUMERISM

14.00
Accessorizing the Renaissance: Female Luxury Artisans in the Florentine Marketplace
Dr. Carole Collier Frick, Southern Illinois University

14.30
An Embarassment of Riches: Clothing, Fashion Culture and Mortified Women in the Later Eighteenth Century
Chloe Wigston Smith, University of Virginia, CHODA

15.00 Tea

15:45
Fashion Discourse in 'Les Modes parisiennes' and 'Les Chroniques parisiennes' in the July Monarchy in France
Dr. Hazel Hahn, Seattle University

16.15
"U R a Naughty Boy Go 2 My Room": Meaning Matters in Girls' and Women's T-shirts
Dr. Agnès Rocamora, London College of Fashion

16.45 Discussion
Chair: Professor Aileen Ribeiro, Courtauld Institute of Art, CHODA

17.00 Close