Textile Cultures: Spain and England since 1500

School of Art, Winchester Campus, University of Southampton

22-23 July 2004

The conference will take place
on 22-23 July 2004,

the 450th anniversary ofthe political alliance wrought between Spain and England through the marriage of Mary Tudor and Philip of Spain in Winchester Cathedral.

This conference will bring together academic colleagues from Spanish and British museums and universities with a specific textile research interest,

as well as individuals with a more general interest from the local community.

For further information, please consult the Conference website: www.wsa.soton.ac.uk/textilecultures or
contact the Conference Secretariat, Ms Lorna Jefferies, Centre for History
of Textiles and Dress on L.Jefferies@soton.ac.uk or +44 (0) 23 8059 6904.

The programme will begin at 9.30 on Thursday 22nd July and finish on Friday 23rd July by 17.30. Tea, lunch and coffee will be served on each day, and a buffet dinner will be available early in
the evening of 22nd July on payment in advance of a supplementary fee.
Full fee for conference: £90 (+ £12 for dinner). Several student bursaries are available to cover the conference fee.

Full Fee: £90.00 with £75.00 for early bird booking and Alumni of WSA and TCC with the cut-off date of Monday, 31st May 2004.
Includes lunch and refreshments each day, and the conference pack containing abstracts of all papers.
A buffet dinner on the evening of 22nd July will also be available on campus on payment at the time of booking of a £12.00 supplement.
Payment of the registration fee is required in pounds sterling at the same time as booking. There is no one-day rate.

Student Fee: a limited number of student places is available at the conference, qualifying for a reduced registration fee of £45.00 (please include proof of student status with your booking form and fee).
This reduced fee does not include the additional cost of the conference buffet dinner and the visit to Winchester Cathedral. Student bursaries: a limited number of student bursaries is also available (see appropriate webpage for further information on application procedure).

The exhibition, England y Espana: The Marriage of England and Spain at

Winchester Cathedral will complement the academic content and will display a range of artifacts including portraits and tapestries from Spanish collections. From the University's own Special Collections will be exhibitedat the Winchester Campus highlights of the Montse Stanley Knitting Reference Library (a collection of literature and objects mainly from Spain and England) and of the Janet Arnold Archive (a unique resource of patterns taken from Early Modern period garments in different European collections).

Provisional List of Speakers in Alphabetical Order


Keynote speaker:

- Dr. Wendy R. Childs (Reader in Medieval History, School of History, Leeds)
From Eleanor of Castile to Katherine of Aragon: Spain and England, 1254-1509

Other speakers:

- Ana Cabrera (Curator, Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas, Madrid)
A British Model for a Spanish Museum: History of the Textile Collection of
the Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas, Madrid

- Sílvia Carbonell i Basté (Keeper of Textiles, Centre de Documentació i Museu
Tèxtil, Tarasa): Textiles, Interiors and Modernismo in Catalonia

- Alison Carter (Senior Keeper of Arts, Hampshire Museums Service)
A Spanish prince wrapped in English robes? Mary I clothes her husband-to-be
à l'anglaise

- Henry Ettinghausen (Emeritus Professor of Spanish, University of
Southampton) Fashion Reporting in Early Seventeenth-Century Spain:
Andrés de Almansa y Mendoza's Coverage of Prince Charles' Spanish Trip

- Maria Hayward (Head of Studies and Research, Textile Conservation Centre,
University of Southampton) Spanish Princess or Queen of England?
The Image and Identity of Catherine of Aragon

- Concha Herrero (Curator of Textiles, Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid)
The Conquest of Tunis Tapestries: Concept, Use and Reproduction

- Marion Kite (Senior Conservator, Victoria and Albert Museum) and Linda
Woolley (Victoria and Albert Museum) Spanish materials, English craftsmanship?
The Reconstruction of a rare and important late 16th century blackwork shift

- Marta Mª Laguardia Álvarez (PhD student, University of Salamanca)
A set of liturgical vestments commissioned by Archbishop Alfonso Fonseca,
ca. 1530 and his influence on the development of liturgical embroidery in
Salamanca during the reign of Felipe II.

- Amy Miller (Curator of Decorative Arts and Material Culture, National
Maritime Museum, Greenwich), Commerce and Conflict:
Roller Printed Textiles and the Battle of Trafalgar

- Lesley Miller (Head of History of Art and Design, University of Southampton)
Clash of Clothing Cultures? Reflections on the Impact of the Prince of Wales' Visit
to Madrid on Dress

- Alexander Samson (Lecturer in Golden Age Spanish Literature, University
College London), Changing Places: Gender Inversion and the Wedding
of Philip of Habsburg and Mary Tudor, 25th July 1554.

- Ann Saunders (Editor of Costume, Journal of the Costume Society)
London's Response to Wyatt's Rebellion

- María Dolores Vila (Independent scholar, Museo Nacional de Artes
Decorativas, Madrid). Goffered velvets in the Collection of the
Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas, Madrid

- Richard Wilson (Emeritus Professor of Economic History, University of East
Anglia): The Export of Norwich Stuffs to Spain, c.1750-1800