ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / vocabulary

  Meeting in Paris: 7/8 June 2002

there were 15 collegues inscribed:

  from France:
Danièle Denise, Fontainebleau
Marie-Jo de Chaignon, Lyon
Maria Anne Privat Savigny, Ecouen
Françoise Tétart-Vittu, Paris
Jacqueline Guilloit
Suzanne Perkins-Gordon, Paris
Isabelle Bedat, Vanves
from Great Britain:
Linda Wolley, London
Marianne Ellis, England
from Italy
Rosalia Bonito Fanelli, Firenze
Thessy Schoenholzer, Firenze
from Germany
Dela von Boeselager, Köln
Karen Stolleis, Frankfurt
from Switzerland
Anne Wanner, Switzerland
from the Netherlands:
Pat Griffiths, Amsterdam


  The programme:
We met early on Friday afternoon in the musée Galliera where Françoise Tetard Vittu showed samplers from the 19th c. and the very special "échantillons" of gowns embroidered by Eugénie Beauvais (see also book reviews and articles).
Discussion was possible afterwards in the library of the museum.

On Saturday Danièle Denise showed us the embroideries in the beautiful and interesting exhibition at Grand Palais (see also exhibitions).
In the afternoon it was possible to continue the discussions in Grand Palais.

For the french speaking people it was not easy to discuss in english and the english collegues had a hard time to follow the spoken french. But we all felt the need to work on a Vocabulary with drawings and photos in order to know exactly what the specialist of other countries are talking about.


  Summary of discussions: The meeting in Paris, 7th and 8th June 2002

I.) It is known that several institutes are working on vocabularies:

-The Textile Museum in Washington, USA is working on an english embroidery thesaurus, but so far there are no experts in other languages involved.
- V&A in London computerizes the collections, but it is not limited to embroideries. The work is done eventually, when there are exhibitions.
- Frieda Sorber, Antwerp, is computerizing her collection. She is also working with terms on embroidery, in dutch language.
- other institutions: ????

  II.) for whom is the vocabulary done:

Members of the CIETA-Embroidery group want to set up an embroidery vocabulary for themselves, for the embroidery specialists working in European museums and also for free lance specialists belonging to the group.

a) at first we are going to collect embroidery terms, expressions. We limit the work to European countries. We are collecting basic stitches first, in order to set up a simple vocabulary. We do not collect regional terms. Every country will set up its own vocabulary, and at a later date we will put these terms together.
b) there should be groups according to the material used. As for instance: gold embroideries, whitework embroideries, drawn- and cutwork, blackwork, machine embroidery etc. As an example we will start with gold embroideries.
Thessy Schoenholzer very kindly offered to work on gold embroideries in Italy.
c) we will also make short descriptions for each term, but not on how to do the stitches, but what is tipical, how does the stitch look like. Historical remarks will help to answer questions at which date the embroideries were worked.
d) there should be drawings of the stitches, and one photo of the frontside and one photo of the backside.

III ) -At this first moment, we are doing this research work without financial sources. The aim will be a CD-ROM , as this way of publication is cheaper.

IV) - The next meeting shall be 14th and 15th February 2003 in Munich, as Birgitt Borkopp is going to exhibit embroideris at the Bayerisches National Museum.
I shall send an inscription form to all members towards the end of the year.

  Books with references to embroidery stitches:
all people working at the project should have these books or copies of parts of them

in german:
- Ruth Grönwoldt, Stickereien von der Vorzeit bis zur Gegenwart, München 1993
- Renée Boser, Irmgard Mueller, Systematik der Stichformen, Basel 1968
- Eva Mühlbächer, Europäische Stickereien vom Mittelalter bis zum Jugendstil, Berlin 1995
- Térèse de Dillemont

in english:
- Mrs Archibald Christie, Samplers and Stitches, a handbook of the embroiderer's art, London 1920
- Mary Thomas, Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches, published by Hodder and Stoughton, Sevenoaks, 1934, last reprint 1993.

in french:
- reprint of Charles Germain de Saint Aubin, Designer to the King, Art of the Embroiderer, 1770, translated and annotated by Nikki Scheurer, additional Notes and Commentaries by Edward Maeder (Los Angeles, 1983)
- Vocabulaire de la broderie de couleur (Nicole de Reyniès)
dans: Livres en broderie - Reliures françaises du Moyen Age à nos jours, expositions organisée par la Bibliothèque nationale de France à la Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal du 30 Novembre 1995 au 25 février 1996


home content Last revised July 5, 2002