|ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / publications|
|The Sample Collections of Machine Embroidery
of Eastern Switzerland in the St Gallen Textile Museum
in: Textile History, 22 (2), p. 165 - 176, 1992, by Anne Wanner-JeanRichard
|page 5 of 10
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Firm of Iklé Frères (15)
Subsequently, there came the time of a general expansion in the machine embroidery industry, and this also happend to Iklé's enterprise: at the start of the 1870s, brother Adolf Iklé entered the St Gallen business. In 1880, Iklé's firm produced the first Schiffli embroidery in Eastern Switzerland which underwent considerable expansion in 1895 and 1907.
The connections with the world's metropolises proved to be of great importance: brother Ernest settled in Paris in 1871; soon afterwards a branch was established in England (Ernest's daughter married her cousin Max Jacoby whose brother opened in 1885 the branch Jacoby-Iklé Ltd in London). There were warehouses in Berlin, Vienna and New York.
Leopold Iklé, initially a
business man, became more and more interested in old lace
and embroideries; he first used them as patterns
for the industry and soon became a passionate
In addition to white embroideries, Ernest
Iklé also described in his book coloured machine
embroideries, such as the "cravattes
brodées" which were especially popular
between 1872 and 1882, or whole sets for robes, later cross
stitch for bags or splendid dress
fabrics. Corresponding patterns can be found not
only as illustrations in Iklé's books, but also among
the fabric samples in the sample books of the firms which
are discussed here.
A designer (18) at
Rittmeyer's described in his memoirs the work process for
To revert to Ernest Iklé's collection: this manufacturer donated to the Textile Museum his meticulously dated collection which presents an important testimony of the production in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.
Leopold Iklé, 1838 - 1922
15 - Adolf Fäh, Leopold Iklé (1838-1922), Gedenkblätter unter Zugrundlegung seiner Memoiren (St. Gallen, n.d.) and also: Gisela Graff-Höfgen, Spitzen von Iklé und Jacoby, in: Hamburgische Geschichts- und Heimatblätter, vol. 9, book 11 (October 1976), p. 274.
16 - Ernest Iklé, la Broderie Méchanique, 1928.
17 - Otto Alder, Weltausstellung in Paris (1889), p. 18 - Walter Siegfried, Aus dem Bilderbuch eines Lebens (Zürich und Leipzig, 1926) p. 125.
18 - Walter Siegfried, Aus dem Bilderbuch eines Lebens (Zürich and Leipzig, 1926), p. 125.
19 - Ibid
called "Washington" built 1891/92,
around 1901, Feldlistrasse 31, 31a.
|content||Last revised 25 July, 2004|