Nr 33
November 2008

Rheinfelden, November 17, 2008

Dear members,
This Newsletter Nr 33 is sent as a word attachment to e-mail. A paper version is sent to all members without e-mail.
The same Newsletter can also be read here on the homepage, with links to the special entries.

I am very sorry that the meeting of the Embroidery group could not take place. Members had no time, no money or they were engaged in other projects. So I travelled by myself and Raffaelle Sgubin and her assistant Gianna Bassi very kindly showed me museums and collections in Gorizia. See also the report on the meeting in Gorizia.

The Vocabulary is still in working progress. The address is being sent in the attachment of a personal e-mail, together with the Newsletter.
Thanks again for sending to me several contributions. I am appreciating all your further information very much.

With all good wishes
yours Anne Wanner
e-mail: wanner@datacomm.ch
homepage http://www.annatextiles.ch

I N F O R M A T I O N (see also section information)

• New Chair of Textile History: The renowned Swiss Abegg Foundation has put up SFr 5 million for a chair in the history of textile art at the Institute of Art History, University of Berne. This post for a tenured professor is unique in German speaking countries. The only other institutions offering similar professorships are the University of Uppsala, Sweden anmd London's Courtauld Institute. In conjunction with the Abegg Foundation's collections and workshops in neighbouring Riggisberg and the Berne Museum of History, this makes Switzerland an attractive education and research centre in a cultural area otherwise rather neglected in the West.
  A personality of international standing in research will be appointed with a remit to actively represent the new position to the outside world and build up a new study programme, "History of the Textile Arts". The postholder will be tasked with setting up a new study programme, a specialised Master programme in textile art history, and a PhD programme, and with conducting pure researxch in the textile arts. The new Professor will be appointed for February 2009.
  Address in charge: Prof.Dr. Bernd Nicolai, Universität Bern, Institut für Kunstgeschichte, Hodlerstr. 8, CH-3011 Bern
  

Fairs

• Antique Textile Fair: The next date for this textile fair held by the British Textile Society is Sunday, 1st March 2009, at the Armitage Centre, Manchester (Morseley Road, Fallowfield). Costumes and textiles from the UK, Eastern Europe and the Orient will be presented for sale on 130 stalls, including English laces, fans and household textiles as well as used clothing and fabrics. Further details can be found on the website www.textilesociety.or.uk

Tours

• Cultural travel to Mali 2008, Cultventures - Africa travel, Matthias Bartholdi, Brunnenstr. 15, D-71696, Möglingen, 28 November until 12 December 2008 - http://www.cultventures.com/seite225.php
  

Lectures

• Reiche Bilder, Aspekte zur Produktion und Funktion von Stickereien im Spätmittelalter, Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld, D-47809 Krefeld-Linn, Tel: 02151-9469450, free entrance, registration required, textilmuseum@krefeld.de 20 and 21 of November 2008

M E E T I N G S (see also section meetings)

next meetings in 2008:

• 5th edition of TEXPOart-Intl. Triennial of textile arts, in Iasi, Romania, organised by the Foundation "Fundac Lascar" in Iasi. Please contact: Ms Miruna Hasegan, e-mail: mhasegan@arteiasei.ro or Ms Cornelia Brustureanu cbrustureanu@arteiasi.ro, website: http://www.arteiasi.ro , from 25 October to 25 November at the Nicolae Tonitza Gallery in Iasi, deadline: 1 July 2008
• 5th Symposium "La Soie en Touraine": the theme will be: the exceptional markets of the Tours Manufacture. Information: Association "Tours, Cité de las Soie", Maison des Associations Economiques, 16 rue Berthelot BP 1028, F-37010 Tours Cedex 1, Tel: (+33) 023 4705 5943, 21 November 2008
• Reiche Bilder, Aspekte zur Produktion und Funktion von Stickereien im Spätmittelalter, Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld, D-47809 Krefeld-Linn, Tel: 02151-9469450, free entrance, registration required, textilmuseum@krefeld.de 20 and 21 of November 2008
• "From Lausanne to Beijing's" Fifth International Fiber Art Biennial
  Organizers: Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts, Chinese Arts and Crafts Institute of Fiber Art Committee. November 25, 2008 - December 25, 2008, Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts.
  Application time: May 25, 2008 - July 25, 2008 (the date for a nomination form arrival date)
  Contact the organizing committee:
  Haidian District, Beijing Tsinghua University, Tsinghua University of Arts
  and Crafts Academy of Fine Arts Department of fiber art laboratory
  Zip code: 100084 - Contact: Dan Zheng, Quan-Hua Liu
  Tel / Fax: 010-62798976 - E-mail: linlecheng010@163.com
  http://www.chinafiberart.com.cn/ - (Chinese art fiber network)
• Early Textiles Study Group - 12^th biannual conference, Textiles in Art: from the Bronze Age to the Renaissance, London 5^th and 6^th December 2008, full payment before October 1st 2008
• "Reinventions: Artists and Tapestry", 2nd Symposium of the Victoria Tapestry Workshop, Melbourne, Australia, in 2008, Contact: Di Macleod, e-mail: dmacleod@victapestry.com.au
• London: meetings at the Courtauld Institute of Art http://www.courtauld.ac.uk/calendar/index.html

Forthcoming Meetings:

meetings in 2009:

• netzwerk mode textil, in Kooperation mit der Hochschule Niederrhein, Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik, 12. – 14. März 2009, in: Krefeld-Linn, call for paper, 15 October 2008
• WORLD IN TEXTILE ART, International Biennial of Textile Art, Palais de Glace - Buenos Aires - 2009, Argentina, from April 1st to 25th, 2009
  Final date for proposals reception will be September 1st 2008 which will be validated per post stamp date.
• London: Great Britain: Annual General Meeting of the Medieval Dress and Textile Society, Provisional topics for 2009:
  - May 2009: Henry VIII: Textiles and Clothing for a Renaissance Monarch
  - October 2009: Aspects of Jewellery and Clothing
  Provisional topics for 2010:
  - Reconstruction - Dyes - Tapestries: Design and production - Dress and Textiles for Coronations. www.medats.org.uk
• International Symposium "VENETIAN GROS POINT" . International meeting on Lace, Retournac, Haute-Loire, F-43130, France. Le Textilmuseum of Saint-Gall (Switzerland), the Research and Restauration Centre for archeological textiles ARTEX of Athens (Greece) et the Musée des Manufactures de Dentelles of Retournac (France) are organising an international meeting in June 2009 in Retournac. It will be of interest to Researchers, museum Curators, Collectors, etc. Information: Bruno Ythier, Musée Manufactures Dentelles, 14 Avenue de la gare, F-43130 Retournac. musee@ville-retournac.fr
• 3rd Triennial of Textile Art, Call for projects, The Cultural Foundation for the Textile Art and the Art Gallery of Szombathely will organise the 3rd Triennial of Textile Art in June 2009 in the Gallery of Szombathely. Theme: presence = being present. A CD should be submitted by post by 5th December 2008.
  

• The 15th ETN Conference in Haslach and including General Assembly will take place Linz/Upper Austria, 22st to 24th of July 2009 - http://www.etn-net.org/etn/211e.htm
  Pre-symposium: 21 July 2009, more information: University of Arts, Linz: www.ufg.ac.at - European Textile Network: www.etn-net.org/etn/211e.htm - Textile Culture Haslach: www.textile.kultur.haslach.at - Linz Capital of Culture of Europe: www.linz09.at
  Deadline 31 October 2008
• Kaunas Art Biennial starts to prepare to TEXTILE 09 events' program.
  Formal conditions for participation at TEXTILE 09 (October, 2009) will be updated on our website till 11th of July, 2008 <http://www.biennial.lt/> - kaunobienale@yahoo.com
• 4th Biennial Quilt Symposium, University of Nebraska in Lincoln USA has issued a Call for Papers for its 2009 Symposium "The Global Quilt: Cultural Contexts". See website with link to the Call for Papers: http://www.quiltstudy.org, deadline for submissions: 15 August 2008
• upcoming meetings of ICOM Costume Committee:
  - 2009: There is an offer from Bernard Berthod to host the costume Committee in Lyon.
  - 2010: ICOM Triennial, Shanghai, China, November 7-13
  http://dept.kent.edu/museum/link/icom.html

E X H I B I T I O N S: (see also section exhibition)

forthcoming exhibitions:

• Sous l'empire des crinoline, 1852-1870, Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, 10 Avenure Pierre 1er de Serbie, Paris, France, 29 November until 26 April 2009
• "From Lausanne to Beijing's" Fifth International Fiber Art Biennial
  Organizers: Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts, Chinese Arts and Crafts Institute of Fiber Art Committee. November 25, 2008 - December 25, 2008, Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts.
  Application time: May 25, 2008 - July 25, 2008 (the date for a nomination form arrival date)
  Contact the organizing committee:
  Haidian District, Beijing Tsinghua University, Tsinghua University of Arts
  and Crafts Academy of Fine Arts Department of fiber art laboratory
  Zip code: 100084 - Contact: Dan Zheng, Quan-Hua Liu
  Tel / Fax: 010-62798976 - E-mail: linlecheng010@163.com - http://www.chinafiberart.com.cn/ - (Chinese art fiber network)
• English Embroidery from The Metropolitan Museum of Art 1580-1700: 'Twixt Art and Nature". A collaboration between The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture, 18 West 86^th Street, New York, NY, USA,. This exhibition will include approximately 85 objects from the Metropolitan's collection of English embroidery. The exhibition was organized by Melinda Watt, Assistant Curator at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and Andrew Morrall, Professor at the Bard Graduate Center, and will be accompanied by a catalogue published by Yale University Press. December 11, 2008 – April 12, 2009 http://www.bgc.bard.edu/exhibit/exhibits/Twixt_Art_Nature/press_release.html http://www.bgc.bard.edu/exhibit/upcoming.shtml - http://www.bgc.bard.edu/ .
• Art of the Stitch: (Results of the international open biennial exhibition, organised by the British Embroiderers' Guild in cooperation with Coats Crafts). Budapest Museum of Applied Arts, 31 January until 21 March 2009
• Art of the Stitch: (Results of the international open biennial exhibition, organised by the British Embroiderers' Guild in cooperation with Coats Crafts), Seville, Spain, Fundacion Valentin de Madariaga, 25 April to 20 June 2009
• Abécédaires, Musée des Tissus et Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 34 rue de la Charité, Lyon, Fr-6900, 24 February until 24 May 2009
  

  ---

current Exhibitions:

Switzerland

• Fibres, Martha Angehrn, tuchinform, Obere Kirchgasse 8, CH-8400 Winterthur, 23 October until 15 November 2008
• Projekt Muschelseide, Naturhistorisches Museum , Augustinergasse 2, CH Basel, Switzerland, 17 October until 1 March 2009
• Textile Museum St.Gallen Switzerland - http://www.textilmuseum.ch/:
  'Secrets - The Lure of Lingerie' , The exhibition in the Textile Museum St.Gallen on the history and significance of the most intimate item of female clothing. 8 May until 30 December 2008

permanent exhibitions:
Switzerland:

• Permanent exhibition at Textile museum St.Gallen temporarily removed

current Exhibitions:
different countries:

France, Belgique:

• Le chiné à la branche, Musée des Tissus et Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 34 rue de la Charité, Lyon, Fr-6900, 2 November until 8 February 2009
• Les Contours du Vide - Dentelle et entrelacs dans le Design, Musée des Manufactures de Dentelles, 14 avenue de la Gare, Retournac, Fr-43130, until 30 November 2008
• Maria Stuart: Le destin français d'une reine d'Ecosse, Musée national de la Renaissance, Château d'Ecouen, ECOUEN, Fr-95440, 15 October until 2 February 2009

Great Britain:

• Fashion V Sport, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, until 23 November 2008
• Treasures of the Ashmolean Museum, Ashmolean Museum, The University of Oxford, Beaumont Street/St. Giles, (UK) Oxford OX1 2PH - 24 May until 31 December 2008

Germany, Austria:

• Textile Short Stories, Galerie Quilt Star in Freiburg Germany, Schnewlinstr. 5a, D-19098, works of Judith Mundwiler, 2 October until 18 November 2008
• Art of the Stitch (Results of the international open biennial exhibition, organised by the British Embroiderers' Guild in cooperation with Coats Crafts), Krefeld, Germany Deutsches Textilmuseum , 28 September until 28 December 2008 - For details call T: +44 (0)20 8943 1229. Catalogue of the exhibition: Art of the Stitch, available at Euro 10 + postage and packing, Embroiderers Guild, Apt. 41 Hampton Court Palace, Surrey KT8 9AU, UK; Tel: ++44-20-89431 229; e-mail: exhibition@embroiderersguild.com
• ... beflügelt und umgarnt..., Schulmuseum Bergisch Gladbach, Sammlung Cüpers, D-51467 Bergisch Gladbach, 6 June 2008 to 1 July 2009
• Wedding Culture and Fashion 1800 to today, Museum für Kunst und Kulturgeschichte, Dortmund, Germany, Hansastrasse 3, D-44137 Dortmund, 17 August until 25 January 2009 - http://www.museendortmund.de
  and: Engelhorn-Musseen, Zeughaus C5, D-68159 Mannheim, 1 March until 7 June 2009 - http://www.rem-mannheim.de and website of the exhibition http://www.evet-jaichwill.de

USA, Southamerica:

• The Divine Art - Four Centuries of European Tapestries, Art Institute, 111 South Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60603, USA, 1 November 2008 until 4 January 2009
• Writing with thread: Traditional Textiles of Southwest Chinese Minorities, Art Gallery of the University of Hawaii in Honolulu, 2535 Mc Carthy Mall, Hi 96822, USA, Catalogue by Angela Sheng, 320 pages. 21 september until 30 November 2008 http://www.hawaii.edu/artgallery
• Needles and Pins: Textiles & Tools in the Neutrogena Wing, Museum of International Folk Art, On Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe, NM 87505, USA, until 4 January 2009

B O O K R E V I E W S: (see also section book reviews)

books and articles:

since summer and autumn 2008:

• The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall, by Santina M. Levey, National Trust books 2007, 400 color photographs, 280 x 219 mm, 400 pages, ISBN 13: 978 190 5400 515, £ 50.- Available from selected Trust shops, good bookshops, or from the distributor (+0870 787 1613) http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-abc4.pdf
  
  
  The following books in Italian language treat subjects regarding the Museums in Gorizia, Italy.
  On the website they are linked with the page about Gorizia and its museums:
• Exhibition Catalogue: Abitare il 700, by Rafffaella Sgubin. 332 pages, in italian. lavishly illustrated, Musei Provinciali di Gorizia, 2008.- ISBN 978-88-88606-10-0
  Abbigliare il Settecento, is one of several articles, it was written by Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols and Raffaella Sgubin, page 275-331.
• Gli Attems Petzenstein e il Palazzo di città:
  Il "gusto odierno" a Palazzo Attems Petzenstein: gli affreschi ritrovati, Raffaella Sgubin. A cura di Raffaella Sgubin, Musei Provinciali di Gorizia, 2008, 36 pages, in italian language, ISBN: 987-88-88606-09-5
• Vanità e decoro, Merletti antichi dalle collezioni Coronini Cronberg di Gorizia, Catalogo a cura di Cristina Bragaglia Venuti e Marina Vidoni, 2007, Exhibition Catalogue in collaboration with the "Scuola dei Corsi Merletti in Gorizia" and also with Deutscher Klöppelverband (Marianne Stang), 66 descriptions of lace with fotos, 72 pages, in Italian language,
• Gorizia, Museo della Moda, e delle Arti Applicate, by Raffaella Sgubin, Trieste 2005, 142 pages, in italien language, lavishly illustrated with coloured fotos, ISBN 88-88606-04-1.
• Fiori d'Arancio, Abiti, accessori e corredi di nozze tra Otto e Novecento nelle raccolte dei Musei Provinciali di Gorizia, exhibition catalogue by Rafffaella Sgubin. 88 pages, in italian, black and white and coloured photos, Musei Provinciali di Gorizia, 1998. (without ISBN)
  
  
• Teufelshörner und Lustäpfel, Modekritik in Wort und Bild 1150-1620, Gundula Wolter, D-35037 Marburg, 2002 Jonas Verlag, Weidenhäuser Str. 88, www.jonas-verlag.de, ISBN 3-89445-307-9 http://www.jonas-verlag.de/shop-frame.htm
• Berber Costumes of Morocco, Costume berbères du Maroc, Traditional Patterns, by Marie-Rose Rabaté and Frieda Sorber, collaboration André Goldenberg, Paris 2007. ISBN - 978-2-86770-185-6, No d'Editeur 1186, Dépot Légal: quatrième trimestre 2007.
  288 pages, 250 x 275 mm, 400 reproductions, ISBN 978-2-86770-185-6, 75 Euros .
• Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII, The Wardrobe Book of the Wardrobe of the Robes prepared by James Worsley on December 1516, edited from Harley MS 2284, and his Inventory prepared on 17 January 1521, edited from Harley MS 4217, both in the British Library. Edited and with a Commentary by Maria Hayward, 2007. ISBN - 978 -1-904 350-70-5 (clothbound), ISBN - 978 -1-905981-41-0 (paperbound)
• European Tapestries in the Art Institute of Chicago, by Koenraad Brosens, with contributions by Pascal-François Bertrand, Charissa Bremer-David, Elizabeth Cleland, Nello Forti Grazzini, Yvan Maes De Wit, and Christa C.Mayer Thurman, Christa Mayer Thurman general Editor, Noember 2008, 416 pages, 297 illustrations (138 color), Hardcover $ 75.00, ISBN: 978-0-300-11960-2
• Fili e Materia come Colore, Yarns and Material like Colour - di Marialuisa Sponga, 120 pages, in italian and english, Italy 2008. - Località Olgiasca N. 60, 23823 Colico (Lecco) Italy, www.sponga.com - gisponga@tin.it
• Embroidered Textile, A World Guide to Traditional Patterns, by Sheila Paine, London 2008, first published in the United Kingdom in 1990, revised and expanded in 2008, in english, 240 pages, with 508 illustrations, 362 in colour, £ 29.95, ISBN 978-0-500-51394-1
  http://www.thamesandhudsonusa.com/new/spring08/551394.htm
• Catalogue of the 3rd European Textile and Fibre Art Triennial, Riga 2007, 140 pages.
  http://www.dlmm.lv/D/catalogue.pdf
  

V O C A B U L A R Y:

Interesting wooden machine
for the mechanical production of gold thread;
end of 18th c..

Chasuble with application of silk fabrics on silk
time of Maria Theresia of Austria.