ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /   CIETA Embroidery Newsletters

Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

No 16
July 2001

Dear members, Rheinfelden, July 4th, 2001
I am glad, to have found also for this present Newsletter conservators and interested people who help me with news and contributions. Many thanks go to:
Christine Aribaud, Marianne Ellis, Pat Griffiths, Tatiana Kossourova, Margret Ribbert, Angela Voelker and Blanda Winter.

Sadly I have to inform that our member Ruth Bleckwenn died on 31 May 2001. I met this very engaged textile historian at the Textilmuseum St.Gallen, where she made studies for her book on "Dresden lace". She also contributed to the newsletter several times.

Please continue to inform me about chalice veils, textile exhibitions, books, courses and conferences. I am looking forward to the CIETA conference in Lyon this september. Hopefully we will be able to discuss the vocabulary project. I shall bring a list with pictures of embroidery stitches and I would appreciate your help very much.

Best wishes yours

Anne Wanner-JeanRichard

please note the slight change (diax, instead of dplanet) in the adress

General information:
No 16/ July 2001 / 2

Personal Information:

- Elsje Janssen, Collection manager, head of conservation and restoration:
Hoofd Behoud en Beheer, Stedelijke Musea
p/a Museum Plantin-Moretus, Vrijdagmarkt 22
2000 Antwerpen

- Ursula Karbacher is no longer working at the Textilmuseum St. Gallen,
her successor is Cordula M. Kessler, Dr. des

- instead of Marta Newmann Laguardia it is: Marta M. Laguardia
Assistant Manager of Antonio Ratti Center, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Marta M. Laguardia
Assistant Manager of Antonio Ratti Center
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

sent a note about her last article:
Bartolomé Rodríguez, bordador salmantino de la segunda mitad del siglo XVI.
In Salamanca, Revista de Estudios, 44, 2000, pp. 299-314.

Abstract: The preservation of a large number of documents related to the biographical and professional aspects of Bartolomé Rodríguez has made possible this approach to one of the most outstanding personalities of the art of embroidery in sixteenth century Salamanca.

The Textile-Museum St.Gallen:
Vadianstrasse 2
CH-9000 St.Gallen
tel: ++41 71 222 17 44
fax: ++41 71 223 42 39
Nature and Landscape - Textiles and Drawings
historical textiles and drawings of nature
by Urs Hochuli meet in a dialogue

an exhibition to mark
the 2001 International Lace Constance Festival

9 May 2001 to 7 October 2001

COLLOQUE INTERNATIONAL: Corsica christiana, 30 June, 1, 2, 3 and 4 July 2001, at Corte - France
(the program sent by Christine Aribaud
can be found on my website, it is not published here because the colloquium is already passed by)


Exhibition: Musee du vieux Montreux, Switzerland:
No 16 / July 2001 / 3

Musée du vieux Montreux
Rue de la gare 40
CH-1820 Montreux, Switzerland
tel: ++41 21 963 13 53
Le quotidien féminin autrefois a voir
tous les jours de 10 - 12h et de 14 h - 17 h

6 April 2001 to 29 July 2001

Exhibition: Voelkerkundemuseum, St.Gallen, Switzerland:
No 16 / July 2001 / 4

Völkerkundemuseum St.Gallen
Ethnographic Museum St.Gallen
Museumsstrasse 50
CH-9000 St.Gallen
tel: ++41 712420648
fax:++41 712420644
"Zur Freude der Götter und Menschen"
textiles from Indonesia

Indonesian textiles from the collection
Franz Lakner (1914-1998)

opening hours:
Tues - Fr: 10-12, 14-17
Saturday, Sunday: 10-17,
closed: Mondays,
and 13 and 16 April

10 March 2001 to 6 January 2

  Exhibition: Haags Gemeentemuseum, Den Haag, Nederland:
No 16 / July 2001 / 5

Haags Gemeentemuseum,
Stadhouderslaan 41
2501 C B Den Haag
Tel: +31 (0)70 3381 111
Chinese Theatre Costumes: the Haks Collection

Theatre costumes from the Chinese Opera Group of Singapore dating from the 20s to the 50s with much embroidery.

The exhibition design is by Frans Haks, former director of the Groninger Museum, while the colour scheme is the work of the artist Peter Struycken.

opening hours:
every day exept Monday
11 to 5

7 April to 9 September 2001

Book: Embroideries and Samplers:
by Marianne Ellis, Oxford 2001
No 16 / July 2001 / 6

Marianne Ellis
Embroideries and samplers from Islamic Egypt
published by Ashmolean Museum Oxford, 2001
text in English, 95 pages, illustrated in colour
ISBN 1 85444 135 3 (paperback)
ISBN 1 85444 154 X (hardback)
The embroideries illustrated in the book are from the Tulunid period (A.D. 868-905), Fatimid period (A.D. 969-1171), the Ayyubid period (A.D. 1172-1249) and the Mamluk Sultanate of Egypt and Syria, ending with the Ottoman conquest in 1517.

Article: silk embroidered vestments:
by Magdalena Hörmann-Weingarten, 2000
No 16 / July 2001 / 7

silk embroidered vestments
of early 17th c., from Tirol

(Seidenbestickte Leinenparamente des frühen 17. Jhs)

in: Der Schlern, 74, 2000, 7, p. 407
text in german, catalogue with many photographs
by Magdalena Hörmann-Weingarten

A catalogue of 38 entries with pictures is added to the article. Six more chasuables are known but it was not possible to receive informations about them.
Among the chasuables there are 2 chalice veils and the altar frontal mentionned in the beginning as a starting point of the research.

Book: Himmlische Rosen ins irdische Leben:
by Margret Ribbert, 2001
No 16 / July 2001 / 8

Himmlische Rosen ins irdische Leben
embroidery patterns of 19th c.
by Margret Ribbert

Historic Museum Basle, Switzerland, 2001
ISBN: 3-9522108-2-X
Text in german, 60 pages, many coloured pictures

The pattern are not only beautiful to look at they also show the blooming sense of family and friendship of the first half of 19th c., the retreat into the security and cosyness (comfort) of the house and of private live. These embroideries point to the part of women who at that time were patient and endurant, following rules and odds.

Article: Gekooide levens (caged lives):
by S. Legęne, 2001
No 16 / July 2001 / 9

Gekooide levens
Een vrij interpretatie van een borduurwerk tegen de slavernij
by: S. Legęne

in: Bulletin van het Rijksmuseum, 48, 2000, no. 4, pp.280-293
with english summary, pp. 323-4:
Caged Lives.
A Free Interpretation of an Anti-slavery Embroidery,
illustrated in colour

Book: Aemilia Ars:
by: Bernardini, Davanzo Poli, Ghetti Baldi, 2001
No 16 / July 2001 / 10

C. Bernardini, D. Davanzo Poli, O. Ghetti Baldi (eds)
Aemilia Ars. Arts & Crafts Bologna 1898-1903
published by Musei Civici d'Arte di Bologna and A+G edizioni, Milan, 2001,

text in Italian, bibliography, illustrated in colour and black and white

The large number of illustrations and the fact that the lace and embroidery enterprise is shown here in the context of Aemilia Ars as a whole make this book a must for any museum with a lace and embroidery collection. It further contains biographies of all the leading artists and designers involved in the enterprise and is in general a very welcome amplification and extension of the book of 1929 by Elisa Ricci.

Chalice veils
collection of MAK, Vienna
No 16 / July 2001/ 11, 12

chalice veils in the collection of MAK, Vienna

Angela Voelker and Blanda Winter: MAK museum of applied Arts:

62 chalice veils, 33 embroidered, 24 fabric, 3 lace, 2 printed:
embroidered veils: 11 Austria, 6 Alp region, 4 Germany, 8 Europe, 4 Italy
fabric: 20 France, 1 Europe, 1 Germany, 2 Italy
lace: 1 Venice, 1 Netherlands, 1 Norge
printed veils: 2 Austria

chalice veils with dates:
1 austrian: 1776, 3 german: 1600, 1676, 1746, 2 alp region: 1789, 1792, 1 european: 1625, 1 printed (Linz, Austria): 1818, 1 lace (Norge): 1951

Chalice veils
collection of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
No 16 / July 2001/ 13

chalice veils in the collection of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

information sent by Pat Griffiths

Chalice veils
collection of Eremitage, St.Petersburg
No 16 / July 2001/ 14

chalice veils of the collection of Eremitage Museum, St. Peterburg, Russia

Tatiana Kossourova of Eremitage, St. Peterburg

8 chalice veils, embroidered
3 German, 2 Spain, 2 Italy, 1 western Europe

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